I recently had my first experience sewing with long pile faux fur when I made my faux fur coat, and I learned a lot about sewing with faux fur in the process. Here’s some tips if you want to create a furry masterpiece yourself!
- Only cut one layer of fabric at a time, with the wrong side facing up. Be sure to cut through the backing only and NOT the fur itself! A flat layout also means you need to duplicate any pattern pieces that would normally be placed along the fold, and other pieces must be cut out as mirror images (ie: one sleeve needs to be cut pattern face down and the other cut pattern face up so you end up with a left and right)
- After cutting each piece, go outside and run your hands along every cut edge pulling away any excess fur. Then give the whole piece a vigorous shake before bringing it back inside.
- Use a long stitch length (2.5-3mm)
- Always sew with the nap of the fur
- Pin perpendicular to your seam, and pin often!
- After sewing each seam, from the right side, pull the hairs out of the stitching with a chopstick or blunt pencil to fluff it up and make the seam less noticeable.
- Use a marker on the fabric backing to mark notches as it won’t be seen through thick fur, or if you need to mark on the right side, tiny pieces of masking tape work great as they’ll come off without removing fur and won’t leave any residue.
- You should only need a universal needle and standard foot
- If you’re using a pattern that’s not intended for fur, be sure to choose a simple design with limited seams and no excess pleats, gathers, or darts. Eliminate all buttonholes and or zippers and replace them with fur hooks
You could use these tips to go off an create a furry coat of your own, or perhaps start off by sewing a fur muff, or customizing your favorite coat by making removable fur cuffs and collars. To make these, just trace the existing collars and cuffs onto some newspaper for an impromptu pattern. Then cut out some faux fur for the outside layer and lining fabric for the inside (that will be against your coat and not seen). Sew these right sides together then flip, and sew some inconspicuous snaps onto the lining side of your new furry cuffs and collars, and also onto the existing collars and cuffs of your coat. Now you’ve got an added touch of glamor than can be removed for laundering or rainy days!