Isn’t this pattern from 1950 just fabulous? It’s featured in Vogue’s New Book for Better Sewing as the “background dress.” Meaning, I suppose, that the sheath-style dress is the background for the scarf embellishment. I love how they show you all the different ways you can style it on the pattern envelope. But what I really wanted to highlight about this pattern is the recommended fabrics and how wildly they differ from today’s fabric choices.
The background dress has a whopping twelve recommended fabrics to choose from, whereas today’s patterns usually only have three or four. And some of the fibers listed on vintage pattern envelopes will sound quite exotic to the contemporary fabric-shopper: faille crepe, surah, shantung, worsted. Two cottons are mentioned—broadcloth and chambray—but who would pick those with all the other options to choose from?
The problem that the modern sewer faces is lack of availability of these wonderfully varied fashion fabrics. Unless you live close to a major garment district (and I know how lucky I am that I do), your options are generally chain craft stores (like Joann’s here in the U.S.) and quilting stores. One of the biggest mistakes new vintage sewers make is to use quilting cotton, which can look rumply and amateurish—plus it drapes horribly. To get a professional look, it’s very important to choose fabrics that are designed for garment-making. In the early 1950’s, you could go to any department store and find a wide array of these fibers. Sadly, that’s just not the case anymore. So what is the modern seamstress to do? Here are my suggestions for sourcing great fabrics when sewing vintage.
1. Shop online. Many good fabric purveyors have started up online with the e-commerce boom. One of my favorites is Gorgeous Fabrics, which sells fabrics specifically for garment-making. Ann, the owner, is a fantastic seamstress and even suggests patterns to go along with each fabric.
2. Work with designer fabric stores by phone. The best fabric stores in New York’s garment district are happy to work with customers long-distance. Looking for the perfect plum-colored silk shantung? Call Mood, Rosen & Chaddick, or B&J and have them send you swatches. The high-end stores have excellent customer service. Find the garment district closest to you and research which stores will provide swatches by mail.
3. Search out vintage fabrics. A basic web search will bring up sites that specialize in vintage fabrics, and you’ll always find a good selection on eBay and Etsy. Drapey rayons and wool challis from the 1940s are worth searching for!
4. Work with what you’ve got. Even the tackiest chain store will have a small garment fabric section. There’s a lot of hideous stuff out there, but keep your eye out for wools and silks that drape nicely. I try to avoid polyester, but that’s just a personal preference. There are lots of nice blends out there. Be sure to find a mirror and drape some of the yardage over you so you can get a sense of how it will work.
Have any fabric-sourcing tips of your own?
Aug 5, 2010, 01.09 PMby revivalfabrics
I agree, garment fabrics look so much better than quilting cottons for vintage inspired garments. The older, high quality vintage rayon fabrics and other fine fabrics are getting harder to find. But when you do find them, you’ll know from the feel of the fabric
Jan 1, 2010, 04.35 AMby elledechene
I actually passed on this pattern at lanetzliving.net, a great place to find vintage patterns at reasonable prices, although lately they do seem to be available less frequently — real vintage, I mean, not 70s and 80s (and 90s!) stuff. What we do (or don’t do) in ignorance. As to fabric, have you tried www.fabric.com, www.fabricmartfabrics.com and www.emmaonesock (truly special fabrics)?
Dec 17, 2009, 05.25 PMby ali-krysta
A heavyweight jersey would be stunning for that dress, especially if it is cut right, the skirt would get some fantastic movement. Maybe a rich colour with a contrasting brocade scarf detail. I keep imagining that dress as a coat, the top right variation in particular would be gorgeus. That image is giving me so many ideas…
Dec 14, 2009, 12.59 AMby smallone
Oh sooo glad someone else does the empty suitcase thing…I’ve been thinking next time I go to NY NY definitely taking and empty suitcase and hitting the garment district.
In San Francisco I use Discount Fabrics, you have to wade through their large and somewhat dark warehouse though as they have such a large inventory and range of quality, one minute Zegna boucle at $100/yd, next min some of that nasty printed flannel pink pigs or the likes…they do have a great discount section and bins with interesting remnants – these also run the same gamut – so I tend to go by feel. Also if you’d like some camo bobble fake fur..these would be your guys…think that is the Burning Man/Halloween influence of SF.
When I lived in London I used to use the fabric stores in Southall or Shepherd Bush. Usually run by people of Indian decent these are treasure troves of embroidered and mirrored fabrics in fantastic colors, all sorts of wonderful stuff can be found…..years ago we made couch slip covers in a fabric printed in life size coca-cola bottles – very pop-art. I also remember they had end of line from seating for the Concord. They are also good places to buy quality fabrics at lower prices … you have to know what you’re looking for though.
But Gurtie, for this particular dress maybe a modern fabric would be your friend – wouldn’t it look great in some kind of wool blend with some stretch?
Dec 13, 2009, 05.02 PMby ncn6
I love gorgeousfabrics.com! I drop lots of money there. When I’m feeling poor, I usually go to denverfabrics and get some stuff when they have a sale… it’s sometimes unpredictable as to whether you’ll get what you envisioned, but most of the fabric finds a use at some point. I also bring partially empty suitcases on vacation so I can buy fabric :)
Dec 12, 2009, 03.49 PMby brocadegoddess
If you’re not fabric shopping for a particular pattern, but are willing to stock up on stuff as you find it THRIFT STORES can be a fantastic resource! You aren’t always lucky, but if you can check in regularly you can get really lucky sometimes. One of the upshots is that they don’t know the difference between good quality fabric and crap, so you can get some great stuff for peanuts. I’ve gotten all kinds of wools, silks, cottons, velvets, and other interesting supplies from such places.
When looking through the store, I’ve usually found fabrics to be grouped in with bedding and drapery sections. It can also be a form of entertainment as you go through all kinds of crazy awful stuff while looking for the hidden gems!
Dec 11, 2009, 03.51 PMby janul
We have quite a bad choice of fabric in our country too. And almost no online shops… Also, quite often you can´t see how big the print is on the web etc. But, mostly I just sew for free… my mother, grandmother and a friend of the same age as my mother gave me some fabric as they no longer want to sew. Many ugly fabric, for sure, but some of it is very nice! I´m sure there are lots of women that have much old fabric at home and don´t plan to sew any more. Also, this way you can probably trade the fabric you have and don´t want (or have too many) with others… And it´s also possible to get free (or for the price of shipping) fabric on the web, as I´ve learned, you just have to be lucky.
Dec 11, 2009, 03.24 PMby grayscout
This article is such a great x-mas gift. As someone who lives in a very remote region (even the groceries have to be flown in!) I am constantly seeking ways to find fabric that is actually wearable. I’ve been limited as of late to mainly projects for my daughter, anything that uses quilting fabric, etc.
I have had a bit of luck finding vintage fasion fabrics on ebay, but that’s never a sure bet! Thanks for reading my mind and writing this. I’m checking out Gorgeous Fabrics right now!
Dec 11, 2009, 03.14 PMby thebananafairy
How do I add this to my favourites list on my profile?
1 Reply
Dec 14, 2009, 09.09 PMby victors
I don’t think you can but it’s a good idea to be able to save your favourite blog posts.
Dec 11, 2009, 02.39 PMby ana555
i know what you mean about the dress. i was looking at the burda fashion history & apparently the women in the 50’s were very well dressed! my vintage dress problem is 2 fold. no close fabric stores & limited vintage patterns. i end up buying on ebay for fabric and patterns. sometimes i can find a really good deal on my local craigslist then go pick it up.
Dec 11, 2009, 02.00 AMby fgcassinelli
I just buy at my local store, because I live in Chile, so most of good online fabric stores dont send to here or its too expensive.
Dec 10, 2009, 10.51 PMby sewmyown
Gertie, would love to see a work-up of this dress. I’ll check your blog. Love it, btw.