You’ll mostly find facings on a garment’s neckline, armhole, or waistline. A facing creates a nice finish on the edge of your fabric where you don’t want topstiching to show. I recently made a crop top that faces the neckline and armhole of the top, and I’m going to show you my step-by-step process!
Since my top needed both neckline and armhole facings, I inserted a combined neckline armhole facing into my garment. This is much easier than trying to sew in separate facings that create overlapping bulk at the shoulder seam. I am going to demonstrate one method of doing this, but there are certainly other ways to sew this type of facing into a garment.
Once I cut and interfaced the combined facing, I pressed the seam allowance (in this case it was 3/8") to the wrong side. From there, I placed my facing on the front top neckline, right sides together and stitched the facing to the neckline edge.
Once my facing was sewn to my top front neckline, I graded (trimmed) my seam allowance to half its width. Then I pressed my seam allowance to the facing side and understitched the seam allowance 1/16" – 1/8" away from the seamline. The understitching is always sewn on the facing piece, and prevents the seam from rolling to the outside of the garment.
Repeat this same process for both the front armholes. Understitching is a little tricky to do for the armholes, but it makes it easier to push up the facing so your sewing machine presser-foot can reach the start of the seam.
Again, repeat exact same processes for the back top neckline and armhole edges. I am inserting a center back zipper so I did each piece separately.
Flip all facings to the inside of the garment, so you can’t see any of the seams. At the shoulder line place the back and front pieces, right sides together and pin. Stitch these seams together right next to where the facing seam allowances are pressed to the inside. It is sometimes easier to use a zipper-foot for this particular seam. Once this seam is sewn together press the seam allowances open, and then hand stitch the facing folds together.
To then sew the side seams, flip up the facings away from the top and sew the facing side seam and top side seam as one continuous seam. Make sure the armhole edges match!
Here is my finished project of our Theater Dress that I transformed into a two-piece suit! I have seen a ton of these matching high waisted skirt and crop top combos on the runway and red carpet.
Now I know all of you are admiring the awesome spray can fabric that I used! The fabric is a digital image of a spray can installation by Toronto artist Julian Michael Majewski, and the lovely people at Spoonflower printed this print on cotton silk. The fabric had such great color tone, and sheen! See more of my project images here.