Here is an easy to follow sewing lesson for our Summer Boucle Coat sewing pattern that debuted in our White Out pattern collection from the June 2011 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew summery coat.
This coat is great for those cool summer nights, and I just love wearing long coats and dresses together. I would sew this coat in a neutral like cream, white, beige or green (yes green is a neutral for me).\
Refer to this pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance, which can be found in the instructions after purchase.
Step 1- Cut out lining pieces minus the facing: Trim paper pattern piece 21 on the marked lining line. Lay paper pattern piece 27 on piece 22 and trace the edge of the facing on the back piece = lining line. Trim the pattern piece on the lining line. Trim away the vent facing. Fold facing of piece 30 to the inside and trace the edge of the facing on the pocket = lining line. Trim the pattern piece on the lining line.
Step 2- Bust darts: For each dart, fold front piece so that dart lines meet. Pin the dart lines together. Stitch, beginning at the side edge. Do not backstitch at the point of the dart but knot ends of thread securely. Trim the dart allowances to 1 cm (3/8 in) wide. Press the darts up. Do not yet stitch the lapel darts.
Step 3- Centre back seam, vent: Lay the back pieces right sides together. Pin the centre back seam and pin the vent closed. Stitch the centre back seam from upper edge to slit mark, tying-off the end of the seam with backstitching. Machine baste (use longest stitch setting) the vent closed.
Step 4- Press the seam allowances open, from upper edge to 5 cm (2 ins) above the vent allowances. Press the vent allowances toward the left back piece, tapering the allowance of right back piece above vent to avoid the need to clip the seam allowances. On the right back, press the facing to the wrong side, on the marked fold line. Trim away the facing of the left back 1.5 cm (5/8 in) from the line marked LEFT EDGE. Work from the right fabric side of the back to topstitch the left back diagonally, as marked on pattern piece, thereby catching the vent allowances.
Step 5- Back section seams: Lay the side back pieces right sides together with the back and pin the back section seams. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.
Step 6- Shoulder seams: Lay the fronts right sides together with the back. Pin the shoulder seams, easing the back shoulder edges. Stitch. Press seams open. Collar: Pin collar band pieces right sides together with collar pieces, matching seam numbers. Stitch.
Step 7- Trim the seam allowances and press the seams open. Topstitch close to each side of seams. Lay the collar pieces right sides facing. Pin the collar band seams and the collar joining edges together exactly. Roll the undercollar to add the required extra fullness to the upper collar. Pin outer edges of collar together up to about 5 cm (2 ins) before the corners – seam lines do not meet.
Step 8- Roll the corners of the collar and pin remaining edges of collar together.
Step 9- Work from the under collar side to stitch the outer collar edges together, beginning and ending exactly on the marked collar joining seam. Trim the seam allowances, trimming the corners diagonally. Turn the collar right side out and press.
Step 10- Front edges and lapels; sew collar to neck edge: Pin the shoulder edges of the front facings right sides together with the shoulder edges of the back facing. Stitch the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowances open. Lay the facings right sides together with the jacket. Pin together along the lapel fold lines and the collar joining mark (seam number 5). Pin the front edges together, beginning at lapel fold line, and pin the lower edges together. Roll the fronts on the fold line to add the required extra fullness to the lapels. Pin the facing in place, up to about 5 cm (2 ins) before corners of lapels. Then roll the corners of the lapels and pin. Stitch the fronts to the facings, from the collar joining mark. At the hem edge stitch only up to approx. 5 cm (2 ins) before end of facing. Tie-off beginning and end of seam, with backstitching.
Step 11- Leave the facings lying right sides together with the jacket for now. Cut the fronts between the marked lines for the lapel dart, about 5 cm (2 ins) long.
Step 12- Lay the collar between the jacket/coat and the facing. Pin the under collar to the neck edge of the jacket/coat, from each seam mark to the dart line. Pin the upper collar to the facing, up to the corner. Stitch.
Step 13- Trim the allowances of the under collar joining seam to 7 mm (1/4 in) wide and press open. Pin the long edge of the under collar to the neck edge of the jacket/coat, beginning at the centre back, and also pin the dart lines together. Stitch. Clip the seam allowances of the facings into the corners, close to each last stitch. Pin the upper collar to the facing, from corner to corner. Stitch.
Trim the seam allowances, also on the front edges, on the lower edge trimming allowances only up to approx. 3 cm (11/4 ins) before the end of the seam. At the corners of the lapels, trim allowances at an angle. Press the seam allowances of the collar joining seams open. Turn the facing to the inside. Press the edges. Pin the collar joining seams together exactly. Turn the back facing up and stitch the seam allowances together, close to the collar joining seam. Turn the facing down again.
Front section seams: Lay the front pieces right sides together with the side front pieces. Pin the front section seams. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.
Hem: Remove basting at back vent. Turn the vent facings to the side. Press the hem allowances to the inside but do not sew in place yet.
Step 14- Sleeves: Lay each under sleeves right sides together with an upper sleeve piece. Pin the back sleeve seam. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.
Step 15- To ease each sleeve caps, stitch two lines of machine basting (use longest stitch setting), one on each side of the marked seam line, from • to •. Do not yet pull bobbin threads. Fold the sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin the front sleeve seams. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open. Press the hem allowance to the inside and stitch hem in place loosely by hand.
Step 16- Setting in the sleeves: First pin each sleeve right sides together with the underarm curve of an armhole, matching the seam mark on the under sleeve with the seam mark on side piece and matching the seam marks 9 on upper sleeve and side piece.
Step 17- Then pin the shoulder mark on the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam. Now ease the fabric of the sleeve cap along the bobbin threads of the machine basting until the sleeves match the armhole edge. Pin the sleeve cap in place, distributing the eased fullness evenly. Work from the sleeve side to baste and stitch sleeves in place. Turn seam allowances toward sleeves. Sew the shoulder pads in place.
Pin each pocket lining piece to upper edge of pocket piece, right sides facing. Stitch, leaving an opening, about 10 cm (4 ins) long, in centre of seam, for turning. Press the seam allowances toward the lining pieces. Fold the pocket on the FACING FOLD LINE, with the right side facing in. Pin the lining and the side edges of the facing to the pocket. Stitch. Trim the seam allowances, trimming the corners diagonally. Clip the allowances on the curves. Turn each pocket right side out, through the opening in the seam. Press the edges. Sew the seam opening closed. Pin the pockets to the fronts, at the abutting lines. Sew the pockets in place by hand, making sure that stitches are not visible from the right side of the garment.
Step 18- Sew the lining: Lay lining backs together, right sides facing. Stitch the allowances of the centre back seam together, 1 cm (3/8 in) from edges, from the upper edge to the slit mark. For the ease pleat, stitch the centre seam from the upper edge down and from slit mark up, each about 5 cm (2 ins) long. Press the pleat to one side. Stitch the bust darts, section seams, shoulder seams and sleeve seams. Press the seam allowances open. Set in the sleeve linings.
Step 19- Sew the lining in place: At the back vent edges, turn the hem allowance down again. On the front facings, turn the allowance on the lower edges down. Pin the lining right sides together with the front and back facing, matching shoulder seams and seam lines. Stitch. Turn allowances toward the lining. Place the lining inside the garment, with the wrong sides facing. Pull the sleeve linings into the sleeves of outer fabric, with wrong sides facing.
Step 20- Pin the centre seams of the outer fabric and the lining together at the top of the back vent, sliding the lining up slightly. Turn in edge of the lining and pin to the facing of the right back. Trim away the other edge of the vent, along the edge of the underlap, to 1 cm (3/8 in) below the top end of the vent, and trim away 1 cm (3/8 in) below the end of the vent. Clip 5 mm (3/16 in) diagonally into the lining corner.
Step 21- Turn in the lining and pin to the underlap and the facing of the left back. Sew the lining to the vent facings by hand.
Step 22- Turn the hem allowance to the inside again and stitch the hem in place loosely by hand. Fold the lower edge of the lining to inside along the edge of the jacket/coat and press the fold edge lightly. Push the fold edge up in a shallow curve toward the upper edge of the hem allowance and pin. Sew the lower edges of the facing and the lining to the hem allowance by hand. Turn in the sleeve linings and sew to the sleeve hem allowances.
Buttonhole, button: Work the buttonhole in the right fastening edge. Sew the button to the left front to match the buttonhole.