Here is an easy to follow sewing lesson for our Silver Shirtdress sewing pattern that debuted in the November issue of Burda Style magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this dress!
I love the metallic fabric used in the this dress. Lamé and similar fabrics are fabulous for this festive time of year, I always wear shiny fabrics around the holidays. The puristic straight-cut of this dress is super forgiving and the 3/4 length sleeve make it season appropriate.
If you want to make this dress refer to the pattern store page here to see fabric requirements and recommendations.
1 - First cut pieces 1, 2, and 5 …
Measure 50 cm (20") inwards from one selvedge and mark with straight pins. Fold the other selvedge to this marking, right side facing in. Lay pattern pieces 1, 2,
and 5 on the doubled fabric and pin in place.Use tailor’s chalk to draw seam allowances of 1.5 cm (5/8") and hem allowances of 6 cm (23/8") along the edges of the pattern pieces. Cut out the fabric pieces.
2 -…Then the remaining pieces
Lay the fabric on the table, wrong side facing up. Pin pattern piece 3 to the fabric, at a distance of 1.5 cm (5/8") from the lower edge. Use tailor’s chalk to draw seam allowances of 1.5 cm (5/8") along all edges. Cut out the fabric piece. Turn the fabric over. Pin the fabric sleeve piece to the fabric, right sides facing. Cut out the second sleeve. Then cut out pattern pieces 4 and 6 and the pocket piece in the same manner. When doing so draw seam allowances of 1.5 cm (5/8") along all edges.
3 - Interfacing
Fold the interfacing in half lengthwise, with the adhesive side facing in. Lay pattern pieces 4 and 5 on the interfacing and pin them in place. Draw a seam allowance of 1.5 cm (5/8") along all edges. Cut out the interfacing pieces. Iron the interfacing pieces to the wrong side of the corresponding fabric pieces. Iron at a silk setting for approx. 8 seconds.
4 - Transfer pattern markings to fabric
Fold the facing pieces in half again and pin together (right side facing). Pin the paper pattern piece in place. Use dressmaker’s carbon paper and tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam lines) and all other lines and markings, apart from the grain line, onto all pieces (see carbon paper for exact instructions). On the bands transfer the fold lines to the right side of the fabric by hand-basting along the lines.
5 - Cutting the lining
Fold the piece of lining fabric in half. Lay the pocket piece (piece 1) on it and pin it in place. Cut out the pocket lining pieces, adding 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances to all edges. Transfer the seam lines to the lining pieces.
6 - Center back seam
Lay the back pieces together, right sides facing. Pin the back edges together then stitch along the marked seam line. Unfold the back piece. Press the seam open and finish the edges of the seam allowances.
7 - Darts
Fold each of the front pieces along the middle of the dart, right side facing in. Pin the dart lines together. Stitch, starting at the side edge. Secure the beginning of the seam by backstitching. Don’t sew backstitch at the point of the dart. Instead, at the point, knot the threads securely. Press the darts downwards.
8 - Shoulder seams
Lay the front pieces on the back piece, right sides facing, and pin the shoulder edges together. Stitch the shoulder seams. Pin the shoulder edges of the front facings to the shoulder edges of the back facing, right sides together. Stitch the shoulder seams. Press the seam allowances open and finish the edges of the allowance. Finish the facing edges, excluding the neck edge.
9 - Stitch facing in place
Lay the facing on the front pieces and on the back neck edge, right sides together. Pin the facing to the front edges, beginning at the slit mark, and also to the neck edge. Stitch, securing beginning and end of seam by backstitching. Trim seam allowances on neck edge, trimming allowances diagonally across the corners. Clip the allowances on the curves. At the slit mark, turn the lower, loose ends of the facings up and pin them
10 - Center front seam, slit
Lay the front pieces together, right sides facing. Pin the front edges together, from the slit mark to the lower edge. Stitch the center front seam. Remove the straight pins from the lower facing edges. Pin the front facing edges together, from the slit mark to the lower facing edge, right sides together. Stitch the center front seam on the facing. Turn the facing to the inside. Press the centre front seam open and finish the edges of the allowances. Press the slit and the neck edges. Sew the facing to the seam allowances.
11 - Stitch pocket pieces in place
Finish the seam allowance on the side edges of the front and back pieces, and on the straight edges of the pockets pieces. Pin the pocket lining pieces to the front pocket opening edges, right sides facing, and pin the pocket pieces of main fabric to the back pocket opening edges. Stitch pocket pieces to seam allowances: main fabric pieces 1 mm (a scant 1/16") from seam lines and lining pieces 5 mm (3/16") from seam lines. Press all pocket pieces over attachment seams. Stitch the lining pieces in place, close to attachment seams.
12 - Side seam, inseam pockets
Law the front piece on the back piece,
right sides facing. Pin the side seam edges together. Stitch side seams, leaving the pocket openings open, between the notches. Press seam allowances open and press the front pocket opening edges. Fold each pocket piece of main fabric forward and pin it to the pocket lining piece. Trim the pocket pieces the same size and stitch them together. Finish the edges of the pocket pieces together.
13 - Hem
Finish the edge of the hem allowance and press it to the inside. Cut a strip of batting, as wide as the hem allowance and in a length to match the circumference of the lower dress edge. Lay the volume fleece under the hem allowance (wrong side of fabric). Pin the hem allowance in place. Stitch 5.5 cm (2¼") from the lower edge of the dress, as marked on the pattern. Then stitch again twice below this stitching line, spaced 7 mm (27/8") apart.
14 - Sew sleeves
To ease each sleeve cap, machine baste (longest stitch setting) from • to • on both sides of the marked seam line. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, with the right side facing in. Pin the sleeve seam edges together. Stitch the sleeve seams. Press the seams open and finish the edges of the seam allowances. Hem each sleeve as described for step 13.
15 - Pin the sleeves in place
First pin each sleeves to the lower section of the armhole only, right sides facing, matching side and sleeve seams and matching notches (5) on the sleeve and front piece. Working from the inner side, pin the shoulder mark on the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam. Gather the sleeve cap on the easing threads until it fits in the armhole. Then pin the rest of the sleeve cap in place. Baste the sleeve to the armhole edge.
16 -…Then stitch
Working from the sleeve side, stitch each sleeve to the armhole edge, starting at the sleeve seam. Stitch close to the basting stitches so that they can be removed easily. Turn the allowances of the sleeve attachment seams toward the sleeve. Remove the basting stitches. Then press the sleeve attachment seam carefully, working from the sleeve side and pressing the eased fabric flat. Finish the edges of the seam allowances together.
17 - Sew the bands
Fold each band lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch the long edges together, leaving appox. 5 cm (2") open in the middle, for turning right side out. Press seam allowances open. This can be done most easily on the edge of the ironing board. Fold each band so that the seam lies along the middle of the band. Stitch the ends closed. Turn the band right side out and press. Sew the open section of the seam closed.
18 - Folded ornaments
Fold each of the bands so that the lines connected by the arrows meet. Stitch along these lines. Lay the folds so that the centre is lying on the seam. Turn the side edges of the folds in, to the centre of the band, and secure with a few stitches. Hand sew the bands to the dress front, close to the edges of the slit. Sew the hook to the inside of the dress, at the upper right edge of the slit. Sew the eye on the left edge of the slit, to match the hook.
There you have it! In only 18 drawn out steps you can have a funky new dress.
Good luck and happy sewing!