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Presenting our absolute highlight for winter! … including detailed instructions, for guaranteed success! Sew it for yourself and follow this sewing lesson to make our Short Jacket pattern that debuted in our Far and Away pattern collection from the January 2018 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this panelled jacket.

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Fabric
Steps 1 2 3


Step 1: CUT PIECES FROM THE THREE MAIN FABRICS
Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in, so that the selvages lie together. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Cut out fabric pieces along these chalk lines.

Step 2: INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 36 to 40 to the inter-facing. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances. Cut out pieces. In addition, cut strips of interfacing to match hems of sleeve pieces 34 and 35, from lower edge to hem fold line. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of fabric pieces.

Step 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC
Lay interfaced pieces together again, right sides facing, or fold, right side facing in. Pin pattern pieces in place. On all fabric pieces, transfer pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to wrong side of fabric, with dress maker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel (see manufacturer’s instructions). Hand baste along hem fold lines on sleeves, to make them visible on right side of fabric. On each triangle, use chalk pencil to write pattern piece number and to mark upper and lower edges.


Step 4


Step 4: CUT OUT LINING PIECES
Trim away lower edges of pattern pieces 34 and 35, along marked lining lines. Fold lining fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 34, 35, 41, and 42 to lining fabric, laying pattern piece 42 on the fold. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Cut out lining pieces along these chalk lines. Transfer pattern outlines to lining pieces, with dressmaker’s carbon paper.

Step 5


Step 5: JACKET FRONTS
First lay all the pieces for one jacket front together, as they will be sewn together. Make sure that the marked lower edges of the triangles are positioned correctly. Then lay all pieces for the second jacket front together, as a mirror image of the first jacket front.

Step 6


Step 6: SEW TRIANGLES TOGETHER
Now stitch the rows with small triangles together, alternating white and brown triangles. First pin two triangles together. Stitch the seam. Trim the seam allowances to 7 mm (¼") wide and press the seam open. Now, pin the next triangle to the first unit and stitch it in place. Continue in this manner until the four front triangles have been stitched together to form a strip. Do not yet stitch the white side triangle (piece 26) in place.

Step 7


Step 7: ATTACH MIDDLE FRONT PIECE AND SIDE TRIANGLE
Pin the large white triangle to the upper edge of the triangle strip, right sides facing. Stitch as pinned. Trim the seam allowances and press the seam open. Stitch the last small white triangle (piece 26) to the side edge of the triangle row, ending stitching on upper edge at marked seam allowance (arrow). Tie-off ends of seam. Trim seam allowances and press seam open.

Step 8


Step 8: ATTACH UPPER FRONT
Pin the upper front piece to the triangle unit, from the front edge to the upper point. The seam mark (1) must meet the horizontal seam. Stitch as pinned. Clip the upper front piece into the corner, close to the stitching line (arrow). Then pin the edge in place, from the clip to the side corner, and stitch as pinned. Finally stitch the short horizontal seam, ending at side seam edge (seam number 2). Trim seam allowances and press open.

Step 9


Step 9: SEW JACKET BACK
Sew the jacket back as described for the front. Begin with 2 rows of 5 small triangles each. Then stitch the middle back pieces (large white triangles) to the upper edges of the triangle rows. Finally, stitch the upper back in place, as described for Step 8.

Step 10


Step 10: LOWER FRONT AND LOWER BACK PIECES
Pin lower front pieces to lower edges of jacket front units, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (3). Stitch as pinned, working from the side with the triangles and making sure that the seam meets the points of the triangles exactly. Stitch lower back in place in the same manner (seam number 6). Press both seams open.

Step 11


Step 11: SHOULDER SEAMS
Lay jacket fronts on jacket backs, right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams, easing back shoulder edges slightly. Stitch shoulder seams. Lay front facing pieces on back facing piece, right sides together. Pin then stitch shoulder seams. Press all seams open.

Step 12


Step 12: STANDING COLLAR
Baste interfaced collar piece to neck edge of jacket, right sides together, matching seam marks on collar to shoulder seams. Stitch collar piece in place. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Press seam open. Stitch second collar piece to neck edge of facing in same manner.

Step 13


Step 13: SIDE SEAMS / SLITS
Lay jacket fronts on jacket back, right sides facing. Pin side seams. Stitch side seams, ending stitching at slit marks (arrow). Tie-off ends of seams. Press seams open.

Step 14


Step 14: SLEEVES
Lay each under sleeve on upper sleeve, right sides facing. Pin front sleeve seam, match-ing seam numbers (12), then stitch seam as pinned. Press seam open. Fold lower edge of sleeve to outside, on marked hem fold line, and pin in place. Pin hem allowance to slit edges then stitch from lower edge to each slit mark (arrows). Tie-off ends of seams. Fold hem allowance above slit marks down and pin in place. Do not yet turn hem allowance to inside.

Step 15


Step 15: SLEEVES
Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin back sleeve seam, matching seam numbers (11). Stitch seam, ending at slit mark. Tie-off end of seam. Turn hem allowance to in-side and baste in place. Press seam open. Sew sleeve hem loosely in place by hand. Above the slit, sew hem edges together by hand.

Step 16


Step 16: SET IN SLEEVES
Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing, easing sleeve cap between the •. The seam marks (13) on upper sleeve and jacket front must match. The seam mark on sleeve cap must meet the shoulder seam. The seam mark on under sleeve must meet the side seam. Working from the sleeve side, stitch sleeve to armhole edge. Trim seam allowances. In the area of the sleeve cap, turn allowances toward sleeve.

Step 17


Step 17: SEW LINING
Fold lining back piece lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch along marked lines, to form ease pleat, and baste between sections of stitching. Press pleat to one side. Remove basting stitches. Stitch bust darts in lining fronts. Press darts down. Stitch lining pieces together, match-ing seam numbers. Set in sleeve linings. Press allowances on lower edges of lining and sleeve linings to wrong side.

Step 18


Step 18: STITCH LINING TO FACING
Pin facing to lining, right sides together, matching shoulder seams. Stitch lining to facing, beginning/ending at seam mark 17 (arrow). Trim seam allowances. On back neck edge, clip lining allowance several times. Press allowances toward lining.

Step 19


Step 19: BASTE FACING WITH LINING TO JACKET
Pin facing with lining to jacket, right sides together. The collar attachment seams must meet. Baste facing to jacket along lower and front edges and along collar edges.

Step 20


Step 20: HEM FACINGS
Pin front hem facing pieces to jacket fronts, along lower and slit edges, right sides facing. Pin back facing piece to jacket back in same manner. Stitch collar and facings to jacket fronts and back, ending stitching at slit marks. Tie-off ends of seams. Trim seam allowances, trimming diagonally across corners. Clip allowances on curves.

Step 21


Step 21: SEW LINING TO JACKET
Turn facings to inside. Pull lining into jacket, wrong sides together. Baste edges and press. Slide lower lining edge up slightly and sew to hem facings by hand. Lay extra length of lining in a small downward fold and press lightly. Sew remaining lining edges to front facings and to slit allowances. Sew front facings to hem facings. Sew lower edges of sleeve linings to sleeve hems.

Step 22


Step 22: HOOKS AND EYES
Sew eyes to left front facing, with the upper eye at the collar attachment seam, the lower eye 8 cm (3¼") above the hem edge, and the remaining eyes spaced evenly in between. The eyes should only barely extend past the front edge of the jacket. Sew hooks to right front facing, to match the eyes. When the hooks and eyes are closed, the front jacket edges should meet.

Pattern


FINISHED!!


Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Pleated Shirt.

2 Comments

  • Img_large_square_large

    Jan 30, 2018, 01.31 AMby zipathome

    I’ve got it! Delpozo FALL 2014 READY-TO-WEAR. This is awesome!!

  • Simba_nov_06_large

    Jan 23, 2018, 09.50 PMby nrobson

    how utterly cool! thats one special style of jacket xx

    • This is a question
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