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For office, theatre or shopping – depending on the styling, this glittering skirt with side pleats and center inverted pleat will go everywhere with you! Sew it for yourself and follow this sewing lesson to make our Pleated Skirt pattern that debuted in our Fall-Haves pattern collection from the October 2017 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this versatile skirt.

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Fabric Colors
Steps 1 2


Step 1: CUT PIECES OF MAIN FABRIC
Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in, so that the selvages lie together. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the hem and seam allowances, as follows: 4 cm (15/8") for hem and 1.5 cm (5/8") at all other seams and edges. Cut out fabric pieces along these chalk lines: With tailor’s chalk, draw the waistband (a) directly on the fabric then cut it out.

Step 2: THE INTERFACING
Pin the fabric waistband piece (a) to the adhesive side of the interfacing, with the right side of the waistband piece facing up. Cut out the interfacing piece, along the edges of the waistband piece. Iron the interfacing piece to the wrong side of the waistband piece.


Step 3


Step 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC
On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Hand baste along the hem lines, pleat lines, and centre front line, to make these lines visible on the right side of the fabric.


Step 4


Step 4: CUT LINING PIECE
Fold lining fabric lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin pattern piece pieces 2 to 7 to the lining fabric as shown in the cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam and hem allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Cut out lining pieces along these chalk lines. Transfer the pattern outlines to the lining pieces, with dressmaker’s carbon paper.


Step 5


Step 5: FRONT AND BACK YOKE
Lay side front yoke pieces on center front yoke piece, right sides facing. Pin side front seams then stitch as pinned. Lay side back yoke pieces on center back yoke pieces, right sides facing. Pin side back seams then stitch as pinned. Press all seams open.


Step 6


Step 6: SKIRT FRONT / CENTER PLEAT
On skirt front piece, fold each center pleat line toward centre front, as illustrated, right side facing in. Baste pleat folds to upper skirt edge. Press pleats lightly, to form an inverted pleat.


Step 7


Step 7: SKIRT FRONT / SIDE PLEATS
Working from the right side of the fabric, lay each side pleat in direction of arrow and pin in place. Baste pleats to upper edge of skirt.


Step 8

Step 8: ATTACH YOKES
On front yoke, mark centre front with a straight pin. Lay front yoke on skirt front, right sides facing. Pin yoke in place, from one side edge to center front – the straight pin on front yoke meets center of inverted pleat. Stitch yoke in place, from side edge to center front. At centre front, clip seam allowance of skirt front close to stitching (arrow). Then pin remaining yoke edge to skirt and stitch from centre to opposite side edge. Finish edges of seam allowances together and press allowances toward yoke.


Step 9


Step 9: SIDE SEAMS
Pin back yokes to skirt backs, right sides facing. Stitch as pinned. Finish edges of seam allowances together and press allowances toward yoke pieces. Lay skirt backs on skirt front, right sides facing. Pin side seams, matching yoke attachment seams. Stitch side seams. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open.


Step 10


Step 10: ATTACH WAISTBAND
First fold waistband in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in, and press. Unfold waistband again. Pin one long edge of waistband to upper edge of skirt, right sides facing. Stitch waistband to skirt. Trim seam allowances to 1 cm (3/8") wide and press allowances toward waistband. Finish edges of allowances on back waistband edges.


Step 11


Step 11: INVISIBLE ZIPPER
Pin the open zipper, right side down, to the slit edge of the right skirt back, with edge of zipper tape 5 mm (3/16") from fabric edge. The zipper teeth begin at pressed fold of waistband. With special presser foot, stitch zipper in place, ending stitching at slit mark. The special presser foot prevents the zipper teeth from rolling in. Pin then stitch the second zipper tape to the opposite slit edge in the same manner.


Step 12


Step 12: CENTER BACK SEAM
Close zipper slightly. Pin center back seam below zipper. Beginning at lower edge, stitch centre back seam, stitching as close to zipper stitching lines as possible, turning loose zipper end out of the way, over seam allowance, as illustrated. Tie-off end of seam with back-stitching. Press seam open.


Step 13


Step 13: SKIRT LINING
Sew lining as described for the skirt, omitting the pleats. Stitch centre back seam from lower edge to approx. 2 cm (3/4") below the slit mark.Tie-off end of seam. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seam open. On slit edges, press seam allowances to wrong side.


Step 14


Step 14: STITCH LINING TO WAISTBAND
Pin skirt lining to upper edge of waistband, right sides facing, opening back allowances on waistband and lining to do so. Stitch lining to waistband. Press seam allowances toward waistband. Turn allowances on slit edges to wrong side again.


Step 15


Step 15: LINE THE SKIRT
Fold waistband on pressed fold, wrong side facing in. Pull lining into skirt. Pin waistband attachment seams together. Working from the outer side of the skirt, stitch exactly along waistband attachment seams. Hand sew waistband ends and slit edges of lining to zipper tapes.


Step 16


Step 16: HEM / LINING HEM
Finish lower edge of skirt. Fold hem allowance to inside and pin in place. Sew hem loosely in place by hand, catching only one thread of skirt with each stitch – the stitches should be as invisible as possible. Press hem edge. Press lower edge of lining to wrong side, 3 cm (1 1/4") wide, turn raw edge under by half this width, pin, then edgestitch in place. The lining will be 1.5 cm (5/8") shorter than the skirt.


Finished Skirt


FINISHED!!


Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Overlap Dress.

2 Comments

  • Missing

    Dec 6, 2017, 06.59 AMby Terezka

    I just made it last night!!!it is beautiful:)

  • Wp_20171105_01_35_20_pro_large

    Oct 28, 2017, 07.09 AMby nrobson

    it looks fantastic. loving the fabric x

    • This is a question
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