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Exciting pleats and dramatically beautiful jacquard fabric – this top is a ‘must have’. Sew it for yourself and follow this sewing lesson to make our Pleated Shirt pattern that debuted in our All Eyes on You pattern collection from the December 2017 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this intricate top.

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Fabric
Steps 1 2 3


Step 1: CUT FABRIC PIECES
Spread fabric out smoothly, right side facing up. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. Please note: Only the pieces which have a broken outline in the cutting layout should be pinned to the fabric with their printed sides facing down. All other pieces must be pinned to the fabric with their printed sides up. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam allowances as follows: 4 cm (15/8") for hem and sleeve hem and 1.5 cm (5/8") at all other seams and edges. Cut out pieces along these lines.

Step 2: THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing, adhesive side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 8 and 9 to the interfacing. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances to the edges. Cut out pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of fabric pieces.

Step 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC
Lay interfaced pieces and also pieces which were cut twice together again, right sides facing. Pin paper pattern pieces to these fabric pieces. On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow instructions included with the carbon paper. Hand baste along all lines, except straight grain and dart lines, to make them visible on right side of fabric.


Step 4


Step 4: LEFT FRONT /PLEAT
Stitch dart from edge to point. Knot threads at point of dart. Press dart up. Fold left front on marked fold line, wrong side facing in, and press. Pin this fold edge to the placement line on front piece.


Step 5


Step 5: STITCH ANGLED SEAM
Turn left front down and pin edges together. Stitch as pinned, matching seam numbers (1). Finish edges of seam allowances together. Turn left front up again. At pleat, baste side edges together.


Step 6


Step 6: ATTACH UPPER RIGHT FRONT
Pin upper right front piece to front. Baste seam, matching seam numbers (2). Stitch seam as basted. Finish edges of seam allowances together and press allowances up.


Step 7


Step 7: FRONT / BAND
On front piece, fold cut-on band lengthwise, right side facing in. With a continuous line of stitching, baste the long edges and the edges of the curve together, ending at the lower edge. Stitch as basted. Trim seam allowances. Clip curve as illustrated. Press seam open, from each seam end to curve.


Step 8


Step 8: TURN BAND RIGHT SIDE OUT AND BASTE IN PLACE
Turn band right side out and fold so that the seam lies along the centre of the lower side. Fold band along marked fold line and baste open end to lower front edge, at marked waist line, matching seam lines. Trim away extending band end.


Step 9


Step 9: LOOP
Fold loop piece in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch edges together. Turn loop right side out and fold so that the seam lies in the centre. Press the loop, thereby pressing the seam open. Fold loop in half widthwise and the pin open edges together.


Step 10


Step 10: FRONT PEPLUM
Working from the right fabric side, lay pleats in direction of arrows and baste in place. Press pleats lightly. Beginning at marked placement line (center front), baste loop to peplum piece, over the pleats (seam number 3).


Step 11


Step 11: ATTACH FRONT PEPLUM
Pin front peplum to front, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (4 and 5). The ends of band and loop must match. Baste, then stitch seam. Finish edges of seam allowances together and press allowances up.


Step 12


Step 12: BACK PIECES
Stitch waist darts in back pieces and back peplum pieces, stitching each dart from edge to point. Press darts toward centre back. Pin back peplum pieces to back pieces, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (6). Stitch seams as pinned. At each seam, finish edges of seam allowances together and press allowances up. Finish edges of allowances on centre back edges.


Step 13


Step 13: SHOULDER SEAMS AND SIDE SEAMS
Lay back units on front unit, right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams (seam number 7) and side seams (seam number 9), matching peplum attachment seams. Stitch seams as pinned. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open. Lay back facing pieces on front facing piece, right sides together. Pin shoulder edges together. Stitch shoulder seams. Press seams open.


Step 14


Step 14: ZIPPER
If needed, shorten the zipper to match the back edges. Separate the zipper halves. Beginning at the marked hem line, pin zipper halves, face down, to back edges – zipper tapes lie on seam allowances and zipper teeth lie over seam lines. Using your machine’s zipper foot, stitch the zipper halves in place, close to the zipper teeth.


Step 15


Step 15: NECK EDGE / FACING
Pin facing to neck edge, right sides together, matching shoulder seams. Stitch facing to neck edge. Trim seam allowances and clip allowances on curves.


Step 16


Step 16: FINISH THE FACING
Press the facing over the seam, toward the neck opening. Understitch the facing to the seam allowances, close to the attachment seam. Turn allowances on back edges, with zipper tapes, and allowances on back facing edges to inside, as continuous folds.


Step 17


Step 17: FACING /BACK EDGES
Turn facing to inside, baste, and press. Hand sew back facing edges to zipper tapes. Also tack facing to seam allowances of shoulder seams.


Step 18


Step 18: HEM
Finish lower edge of top. Turn hem allowance to inside and baste in place. Press lower edge. Sew hem loosely in place by hand, making sure that the stitches are not visible from the outer side. Hand sew back edges of hem allowance to zipper tapes.


Step 19


Step 19: SLEEVES
On each sleeve, stitch dart. Press dart down. To ease the sleeve cap, machine baste twice close to the marked seam line, from . to . as illustrated. Do not cut threads too short. Fold sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin sleeve seam. Stitch seam as pinned. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seam open.


Step 20


Step 20: SET IN SLEEVES
To ease each sleeve cap, slightly pull bobbin threads of machine basting. Pin sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing, observing the following points: Seam marks (11) on sleeve and front piece must match. Sleeve seam and side seam must match. The seam mark on sleeve cap must meet shoulder seam. The eased fullness must be evenly distributed. Working from the sleeve side, stitch sleeve to armhole edge. Finish edges of seam allowances together.


Step 21


Step 21: FINISHING
Try the top on. Pin the cut-on band to the peplum attachment seam then tack it in place, with small stitches by hand. If the angled pleat tends to spring open, pin it in place from the outer side, then work from the inner side to tack the pleat fold to the front, with small stitches by hand. Determine the sleeve length. Hem the sleeves as described in Step 18.


Top


FINISHED!!


Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Diagonal Jacket.

1 Comment

  • Simba_nov_06_large

    Dec 30, 2017, 10.02 AMby nrobson

    this is different! stunning xx

    • This is a question
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