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It might not look like it, but the instructions for this glamorous dress style are very easy to understand. Just take it one step at a time and follow this sewing lesson to make our Overlap Dress pattern that debuted in our Oh So Sweet! pattern collection from the September 2017 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this dress for holiday season coming up.

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Fabric
Step 1 2 3


Step 1: CUT OUT FABRIC PIECES
Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side fa-cing in, so that the selvages lie together. Pin pa-per pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam allowances, as follows: 4 cm (1 5/8") for hem and sleeve hem and 1.5 cm (5/8") at all other seams and edges. Cut out fabric pieces along these chalk lines.

Step 2: THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half widthwise, adhesive side facing in. Pin pattern pieces 3, 8, and 9 to the interfacing, as illustrated. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances. Cut out pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of corresponding fabric pieces.

Step 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC
Lay interfaced pieces together again, right sides facing or fold them in half again, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to these fabric pieces. On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer pattern out lines (seam and hem lines) and all other markings to wrong side of fabric, following manufacturer’s instructions. Hand baste along hem lines, placement lines, pleat lines, dart lines, and stitching lines on front, to make them visible on right side of fabric.


Step 4


Step 4: BANDS
Lay each interfaced band piece on a band piece with no interfacing, right sides together. Stitch together along long edges. Trim seam allowances. Turn bands right side out. Baste seamed edges and press. Baste bands to bodice front, to meet marked placement lines. The allowances on the ends of the bands must extend past the marked dart lines. Trim allowances on band ends to 5 mm (3/16").


Step 5


Step 5: FRONT DARTS
Fold bodice front so that the lines of each dart meet, right side facing in. Pin the darts. Stitch each dart from edge to point, catching the band ends in the dart seams. Knot threads at points of darts. Press darts toward side edges.


Step 6


Step 6: SKIRT FRONT /PLEATS
Fold skirt front so that the lines of each pleat meet, right side facing in. Stitch each pleat from upper edge to pleat arrow. Tie-off ends of seams. Press pleat folds toward centre front and baste to upper edge of skirt.


Step 7


Step 7: FRONT WAIST SEAM
Lay bodice front on skirt front, right sides facing. Pin waist seam, matching seam numbers (1) and matching darts to pleats. Stitch waist seam. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seam open.


Step 8


Step 8: BACK DARTS /BACK WAIST SEAM
Stitch darts in bodice backs and skirt backs (see Step 5). Press all darts toward centre back. Lay bodice backs on skirt backs, right sides facing. Pin waist seams, matching seam numbers (2) and matching darts. Stitch waist seams. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open.


Step 9


Step 9: INVISIBLE ZIPPER
Finish back edges of dress and edges of walking slit. Pin the opened zipper, face down, to one back dress edge, 5 mm (3/16") from the fabric edge. The zipper teeth must begin at the marked neck edge. Using a special presser foot, stitch the zipper in place, ending stitching at the slit mark. Stitch the second zipper tape to the opposite slit edge in the same manner.


Step 10


Step 10: CENTER BACK SEAM
Close the zipper slightly. Lay skirt backs together, right sides facing. Pin the centre back seam and baste the slit closed, as a continuation of the seam. Stitch center back seam from slit mark to as close to the zipper stitching as possible, turning the end of the zipper out of the way, over the seam allowance to do so. Tie-off ends of seam. At upper end of walking slit, clip seam allowance of right skirt back into corner, close to stitching (arrow).


Step 11


Step 11: BACK WALKING SLIT
Press center back seam open. At slit mark, stitch across zipper several times, to lock it. Trim away zipper end, 2 cm (¾") below this stitching. Below the clip, press slit allowances toward left skirt back. Press allowance of right skirt back (underlap edge) to wrong side and stitch in place. Pin upper edges of slit allowances to left skirt back. Working from the outer side of the skirt, stitch diagonally, as marked, thereby catching the slit allowances.


Step 12


Step 12: SHOULDER SEAMS
Lay bodice front on bodice back, right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams, matching seam numbers (3). Stitch shoulder seams. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open. Lay back facing pieces on front facing piece, right sides together. Stitch shoulder seams, matching seam numbers (4). Press seams open. Finish outer edge of facing.


Step 13


Step 13: NECK EDGE / FACING
Pin facing to neck edge, right sides together, matching shoulder seams. Fold back facing edges to outside, 0.5 cm (3/16") before slit edges, and pin in place. Fold back allowances of dress (with zipper tapes) to outside and pin in place, over facing. Stitch along marked neck edge. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. At centre front, clip allowances close to stitching (arrow).


Step 14


Step 14: TURN FACING TO INSIDE, SEW FACING IN PLACE
Turn facing up. Press allowances toward facing and understitch to facing, close to attachment seam, stitching as far as possible. Turn facing to inside. Baste neck edge and press. Hand sew facing to allowances of shoulder seams. Sew back facing edges to zipper tapes.


Step 15


Step 15: SIDE SEAMS
On the bodice front, cross the bands and baste to side edges, to meet marked placement lines. Lay dress front on dress back, right sides facing. Pin side seams, matching waist seams. Stitch seams. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open. Baste the beaded trim to the bands and sew in place by hand. Turn ends of trim under at side seams and darts, first carefully removing the beads from the ends. Hide thread ends.


Step 16


Step 16: SLEEVES
Lay each sleeve back piece on sleeve front piece, right sides facing. Pin back sleeve seams, matching seam numbers (6). Stitch seams. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin lower sleeve seams, matching seam numbers (7). Stitch seams. Finish edges of seam allowances and press seams open. To hem sleeves, see Step 18.


Step 17


Step 17: SET IN SLEEVES
Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing, paying attention to the following: The seam marks (8) on sleeve and bodice front must match. The lower sleeve seam must meet the side seam. The seam mark on sleeve cap must meet the shoulder seams. Baste sleeve in place, easing the sleeve cap from • to •. Stitch sleeve in place. Finish edges of seam allowances together. In area of sleeve cap, lay allowances toward sleeve.


Step 18


Step 18: HEM / WALKING SLIT
On left skirt back, open slit allowance. Finish lower edge of skirt. Turn hem allowance to inside and pin in place. Sew hem loosely in place by hand – the stitches should not be visible on the outer side of the dress. Turn slit allowance to inside again and sew to hem allowance by hand. Press hem and slit edges.


Finished


FINISHED!


Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Double Breasted Jacket.

2 Comments

  • 1-day_31_mmm_2017_009_4_large

    Sep 15, 2017, 12.48 PMby lisascarolina

    Thank you so much for this Sewing Lesson! I love this dress and am planning to make one as my Christmas dress this year. :)

  • Wp_20171105_01_35_20_pro_large

    Sep 15, 2017, 09.56 AMby nrobson

    good instructions x

    • This is a question
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