The cool alternative to a blazer. This must-have is now also making an appearance at the office! Follow this sewing lesson to make our Leather Moto Jacket sewing pattern that debuted in our Most Wanted pattern collection from the January 2017 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this edgy biker jacket.
Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.
Step 1- FIRST CUT OUT THE LEATHER PIECES:
Lay pattern pieces on wrong side of leather, noticing direction of nap. Right and left pieces must be mirror images of one another, e.g.lay pattern piece down once with its printed side up and once with its printed side down. Adhere all pattern pieces to leather, with adhesive tape, to prevent slipping.With pencil or tailor’s chalk, draw seam and hem allowances along edges of pattern pieces, as follows: 4 cm (15/8") for hem and1.5 cm (5/8") on all other edges and seams. Cut out leather pieces.
Step 2- THE INTERFACING:
Fold interfacing in half widthwise, adhesive side facing in. Pin pattern pieces 21, 22, 29, and 30 to interfacing. Pin pattern pieces 25 and 31 to interfacing, on the fold. Mark seam and hem allowances as for leather pieces. Cut out all pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of leather pieces (iron setting: 1 dot/ silk). Press iron on pieces, section by section, for 10 seconds per section – do not slide iron. In addition, iron strips of interfacing, 4 cm (15/8") wide to wrong sides of hem allowances on side front, side back, and sleeve pieces.
Step 3- TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO LEATHER:
Lay pairs of matching pieces together, right sides facing. Lay pattern pieces on matching pairs. Use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a smooth tracing wheel – or the back of a knife blade – to transfer pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to the wrong side of each leather piece. Tip: With vanishing chalk (Prym), lines can also be marked on the right side of the leather since these lines will disappear with time.
Step 4- CUT PIECES FROM LINING FABRIC:
Lay the back facing piece (pattern piece 31) on the centre back piece (pattern piece 24) and mark lower facing edge. Trim away facing section. Fold lining fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in, matching selvages. Pin pattern pieces to lining fabric. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark seam and hem allowances: 1.5 cm (5/8") on all edges and seams. Cut out lining pieces. Transfer pattern outlines to lining pieces, with the help of dressmaker’s carbon paper.
Step 5- FRONT SECTION SEAMS:
Lay side front pieces on middle front pieces, right sides facing. Stitch section seams, matching seam numbers (2). Trim seam allowances to 0.7 cm (¼") wide. Lay seam allowances toward middle fronts. Topstitch middle fronts close to seams, thereby catching seam allowances. Right front: Lay right middle front piece on right front piece, right sides facing. Stitch section seam, matching seam numbers (1). Trim seam allowances. Press allowances toward middle front. Topstitch middle front close to seam.
Step 6- ZIPPER:
For sizes 38 to 44, shorten the 40 cm (16") long zipper, see page 7 of the sewing supplement. Separate zipper halves. Lay one half face down on front edge of right front piece, as illustrated. Pin zipper tape to seam allowance. Pin second zipper tape to left middle front piece in same manner. For each zipper half, begin at marked hem line and turn upper end of zipper tape under.
Step 7- LEFT FRONT SECTION SEAM:
Lay the left front with no interfacing on the left middle front piece, right sides facing. Pin the section seam. Stitch the seam, using your machine’s zipper foot and stitching close to the zipper teeth. Press seam allowances toward middle front. Topstitch middle front close to seam.
Step 8- ZIPPER POCKETS:
On each middle front piece, transfer the zipper marking to the wrong side of the leather, with the back of a knife blade, so that it is also visible on the outer side. Lay each pocket lining piece on a middle front piece, right sides facing. Stitch together around the marked pocket opening line. Cut between the long stitching lines and clip diagonally into corners. Turn pocket lining pieces to inside and press seamed openings.
Step 9- STITCH POCKET AND LINING PIECES TOGETHER:
Glue zipper under each pocket opening. With the zipper foot, edgestitch opening edges to zipper tapes. Pin each leather pocket piece to a pocket lining piece, right sides facing. Stitch together around all edges.
Step 10- JACKET BACK:
On centre back pieces, stitch centre seam. Press seam open. Topstitch close to both sides of seam. Stitch back band piece to centre back unit. Trim seam allowances and press allowances toward band. Topstitch band close to seam. Topstitch band 4 times, spaced 2.5 cm (1") apart, as shown. Lay side back pieces on centre back unit. Stitch back section seams, matching seam numbers (4). Trim seam allowances and press allowances toward side backs. Topstitch side backs close to seams.
Step 11- SHOULDER SEAMS AND SIDE SEAMS:
Lay jacket fronts on jacket back, right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams and side seams. Stitch seams as pinned. Trim seam allowances. Press seams open. Glue seam allowances in place.
Step 12- SLEEVE PATCHES:
On each sleeve patch piece (pieces 33 and 34), trim away seam allowance on curved edge. Glue patches to upper and under sleeve pieces, to meet marked placement lines. Edgestitch patches in place. Topstitch each patch 2 more times, spaced 1.5 cm (5/8") apart, first marking lines with a ruler and vanishing chalk.
Step 13- SLEEVE PLACKETS WITH ZIPPERS:
On each upper sleeve piece, transfer the zipper marking to the wrong side of the leather, with the back of a knife blade, so that it is also visible on the outer side. Cut each sleeve between marked lines and clip diagonally into corners. Fold slit allowances to wrong side and glue in place. Lay zipper under slit edges and glue zipper tapes in place. With the zipper foot, topstitch close to slit edges, thereby catching the zipper.
Step 14- SLEEVE SEAMS:
Lay each under sleeve on upper sleeve, right sides facing. Pin back sleeve seams, matching seam numbers (9). Stitch seams. Press seams open and glue allowances in place. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin front sleeve seams, matching seam numbers (10). Stitch seams. Press seams open and glue allowances in place.
Step 15- SET IN SLEEVES:
Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing. The seam mark on sleeve cap must meet the shoulder seam. The seam marks (11) on upper sleeve and jacket front must match. Working from the sleeve side, stitch sleeve to armhole edge. Trim seam allowances. In the area of the sleeve cap, press allowances away from sleeve. Topstitch jacket close to sleeve attachment seam, between front and back sleeve seams.
Step 16- FACING SHOULDER SEAMS:
Pin back facing piece to shoulder edges of interfaced front pieces (= front facings), right sides together. Stitch shoulder seams, matching seam numbers (5). Press seams open. On each front facing, trim hem allowance in a shallow curve to 1.5 cm (5/8") wide, from front edge to inner facing edge.
Step 17- LINING:
Slash each upper sleeve, as described in Step 13. Press allowances on slash edges to wrong side. Stitch sleeve seams, on one sleeve leaving an opening in back sleeve seam, large enough to turn jacket right side out, later. Sew lining. Pin lining to inner edge of facing, right sides together, matching shoulder seams. Stitch lining to jacket. Trim seam allowances. Clip lining allowances on curves. Press allowances toward lining.
Step 18- COLLAR STANDS:
Pin each collar stand piece to a collar piece, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (6). Stitch as pinned. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Press seams open. Topstitch close to both sides of each seam.
Step 19- ATTACH COLLAR UNITS:
Pin one collar unit to neck edge of jacket, between seam marks, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (7). Stitch collar unit in place. Stitch second collar unit to neck edge of facing in same manner. Tie-off ends of seams. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Press seams open.
Step 20- STITCH COLLAR UNITS TOGETHER:
Pin collar units together, right sides facing, easing the extra length of upper collar from the outer edges – the marked seam lines will no longer match. Stitch collar units together. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Clip seam allowances of jacket fronts and facings at seam marks, clipping close to stitching (arrow). Beginning at each clip, turn allowance of lapel up.
Step 21- LAPEL – LOWER EDGE:
Beginning at each clip, pin facing to jacket front, easing the extra length of the lapel, from the outer edge. Pin lower edges of jacket front and facing together and also pin lining in place. Stitch edges together. On lower edge, beginning at each front edge, stitch along marked hem line, approx. 4 cm (15/8") long, then stitch in a shallow curve to edge of lining allow ance. Trim allowances, trimming diagonally across corners. Clip curves. Do not yet turn jacket right side out.
Step 22- HEMS:
Turn hem allowance to inside, 4 cm (1½") wide and glue to jacket back and side fronts. Glue sleeve hem allowances in place in the same manner, but leave the upper 2 cm (¾") loose – the lining will be stitched in place here. Turn jacket right side out, through the opening in the sleeve lining seam. Edgestitch the edges of this opening closed. Pull sleeve linings into sleeves, wrong sides facing. Topstitch close to front edges and edges of collar and lapels.
Step 23- STITCH LINING TO SLEEVE HEMS:
On each sleeve lining, turn allowance on lower edge under. Pin sleeve lining to sleeve hem as illustrated – the lining slit edges lie on the zipper tapes. Now, at zipper slit, reach between leather and lining and pull lower sleeve edge to outside. Remove pins but still hold edges firmly. Then pin lower edge of lining to hem edge of sleeve, right sides facing. Stitch edges together.
Step 24- SEW LINING TO ZIPPER:
Pull lower sleeve edge down again. Pin edges of lining slit to zipper tapes, laying the extra length of the lining down, in a small fold. Sew lining edges to zipper tapes by hand.
We love a moto jacket as an every outfit staple. Try pairing with a classic and sleek pair of bottoms like our Audrey Pants and layer a fun tank like this stappy chiffon one!. Then all you need are basic boots and let the jacket do the shining.
Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Oversized Pullover.