Here is an easy to follow sewing lesson for our Double Layer Skirt sewing pattern that debuted in the December 2012 issue of Burda Style magazine in our fancy Night at the Opera pattern collection. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this dress!
This full bodied skirt is fun and flirty. It has an under layer of shot taffeta and a beautiful gathered outer layer of tulle lace. I definitely plan on making this skirt but instead of lace I want to use mesh and a patterned fabric underneath!
Refer to this pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance, which can be found in the instructions linked to on the pattern page.
Cut pieces 1 & 2 (1 on the fold), and also draft the waistband:
Size 34: 69 cm (27¼"),
Size 36: 73 cm (28¾"),
Size 38: 77 cm (30½"),
Size 40: 81 cm (32"),
Size 42: 85 cm (33½"),
Size 44: 89 cm (35") long,
all 5 cm (2") wide (including seam allowances)
For the outer skirt, use a piece of tulle lace with scalloped edge,
width: 95 cm (37") and cut the 65cm
length: 2.35 m (2 5/8 yds)
Then transfer the dart legs on to your fabric using tracing paper and wheel.
Now it’s time to start sewing!
Step 1- Darts: Fold each skirt panel along centre of dart, right side facing in. Pin dart lines together, and stitch, beginning at upper edge. Tie-off beginning of seam with backstitching. Do not backstitch at point of dart. Instead, knot threads. Press darts toward centre front and centre back.
Step 2- Side seams: Lay skirt back panels on front panels, right sides facing. Pin side seam edges together and stitch 1.5 cm/ 5/8" (seam allowance width) from the edge. Press seam allowances open and finish edges.
Step 3- Gather outer layer: Stitch 7 mm (¼") from the upper edge on largest stitch setting. Stitch again 5 mm (3/16") further in. Hold the lower threads tight and gather the outer layer together on the threads until it’s the same width as the upper edge of the skirt. Knot the threads. Distribute gathering evenly.
Step 4- Baste overskirt in place: Lay the wrong side of the overskirt on the right side of the skirt. Baste upper edges and back edges together, as far as the slit.
Step 5- Invisible zipper, right half: Lay the open zipper, right side down, on the right skirt back, 5 mm (3/16") from the edge of the fabric. The zipper teeth begin 1 cm (3/8") below the edge of the skirt. Use the special presser foot to stitch the zipper in place, from upper edge to slit mark (clip). The needle is to the left of the zipper teeth.
Step 6- Invisible zipper, left half: Close the zipper. Lay the second zipper tape on the slit edge of the left skirt back, and pin the upper end of the zipper tape in place. Open the zipper. Stitch the second zipper tape in place, from the upper edge to the slit mark. The needle is to the right of the zipper teeth. Close the zipper.
Step 7- Back seam – Taffeta skirt: Clip the lace fabric close to the last stitch of the zipper seams and fold upwards. Lay the taffeta skirt back pieces together, right sides facing. Pin the seam edges together, from the lower edge to close to the slit mark, while pulling the loose end of the zipper outwards. Stitch (seam width 1.5 cm/5/8").
Step 8- Back seam – outer layer: Lay the back edges of the outer layer together, right sides facing. Stitch together from the lower edge to the slit mark (seam width 1.5 cm/5/8"). Trim the allowances to 7 mm (¼") wide and press to one side. Finish the seam allowances on the centre seam of the taffeta skirt and press open.
Step 9- Stitch waistband to skirt: Fold waistband in half lengthwise, wrong side (interfacing) facing in. Press fold edge. Unfold waistband again and pin to top edge of skirt, right sides facing, so that it extends 1 cm (3/8") past the right slit edge, and 3 cm (1¼") past the left slit edge. Stitch (seam width 1 cm/3/8"). Press seam allowances onto waistband. Press under other long waistband edge, 1 cm (3/8") wide.
Step 10- Face waistband ends: Fold waistband on pressed fold, right side facing in. Stitch ends closed, 1 cm (3/8") wide. Trim seam allowances diagonally across corners. Turn waistband right side out. Pin inner half over attachment seam. Topstitch waistband on right side along attachment seam close to edge, thereby stitching inside half in place.
Step 11- Sew snap fastener in place: Sew the upper part of the snap fastener to the inside of the right end of the waistband, stitching through to right side of waistband with even stitches. Sew the under part of the snap to the left end of the waistband (underlap).
Step 12- Hem: On the taffeta skirt, finish the edge of the hem allowance. Press the hem allowance to the inside, 4 cm (1 5/8" wide), and sew in place loosely by hand.
I love this style of skirt for a date night! Try pairing with a bustier top like this one to turn this style into a dress, and if you get chilly bundle up under this chic fur scarf. Put on your strapiest pair of heels and your ready for a night out.