Here is an easy to follow sewing lesson for our Bootcut Overalls sewing pattern that debuted in our Prairie Darling pattern collection from the June 2014 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this overalls sewing pattern great for an edgy ‘back to school’ look.
Overalls are a fun piece to intemix into your wardrobe, wear then over a blouse, t-shirt or under a great fall jacket. This particular style of overalls has a fitted leg with a bootcut shaped hem. The center front zipper is a nice new touch to this traditional type of garment. I have been thinking lately how fun it would be to wear overalls again, so I am definitely so add this sewing pattern to my ‘to sew list’ perhaps in a black denim?
Refer to this pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance, which can be found in the instructions after purchase.
Step 1- Stretch seam edge of back trouser pieces: Lay back trouser pieces together, right sides facing. Press inside leg edges above seam mark (at knee) with a steam iron or under a damp cloth until they match corresponding edges on trouser fronts.
Step 2- Darts: To stitch each dart, fold back trouser piece along centre of dart, right side facing in. Pin dart lines together. Stitch, beginning at upper edge. Do not backstitch at point of dart. Instead, knot thread ends securely here. Press darts toward centre.
Step 3- Set in side trouser pieces: Pin each side front trouser piece to trouser front, from lower edge to corner, right sides facing. Pin side back pieces to trouser backs in same manner. Stitch.
Step 4- Clip allowances of trouser fronts and backs into corners, close to last stitches.
Step 5- Pin each trouser piece to side piece, from corner to side edge. Stitch. Neaten seam allowances together and press toward side pieces. Topstitch side pieces 5 mm (3/16 in) from seams (buttonhole thread).
Step 6- Side hip yoke pieces: Pin side hip yoke pieces to front trouser pieces, from upper edges to corners, right sides facing. Stitch.
Step 7- Clip allowances of trouser fronts into corners, close to last stitches (see illus. 4). Pin each trouser piece to hip yoke piece, from corner to side edge. Stitch. Neaten seam allowances together and press toward hip yoke pieces. Topstitch hip yoke pieces 5 mm (3/16 in) from seams.
Step 8- Pockets with flaps, trouser backs: Mark a placement line, 1 cm (3/8 in) below each flap attachment line (vanishing chalk).
Stitch pairs of flap pieces together, right sides leaving attachment edges open. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally.
Step 9- Turn flaps right side out. Press edges and topstitch close to edges. Pin flaps to attachment lines – flaps point up. Stitch flaps in place.
Step 10- Fold allowances of flaps up and pin. Fold welt strips in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in. Press. Pin welts to trouser backs, with fold edges at placement lines – open edges point up. Stitch each welt in place, stitching 7 mm (1/4 in) from fold edge and at both ends stitching 5 mm (3/16 in) shorter than flap attachment seam.
Step 11- Cut trouser backs between lines of stitching, ending about 1 cm (3/8 in) before welt attachment seams then clipping diagonally toward seam ends, close to each last stitch, to form small fabric triangles. Do not cut pocket pieces.
Step 12- Turn welts toward pocket openings and turn flaps down. Press allowances of welt attachment seams down and press allowances of flap attachment seams toward upper edge. Pin one pocket piece to seam allowances of each welt, right sides facing – pocket piece points toward upper edge.
Step 13- Work from inside to stitch seam allowances of welts to pocket pieces, close to attachment seams.
Step 14- Press pocket pieces down. Fold small triangles at pocket opening ends to inside. Topstitch trouser pieces close to welt joining seam and pocket ends. On inside, pin remaining pocket pieces to seam allowances of flap attachment seams and stitch as explained for pocket pieces. Trim pocket pieces even and stitch together. Finish all edges of pockets. Topstitch trouser pieces close to flap attachment seams. Also stitch ends of welts in place with small, closely spaced zigzag stitches.
Step 15 & 15a- In-seam pockets, side seams: Pin pocket pieces to pocket opening edges of trousers and hip yokes, right sides facing, matching seam marks. Stitch pocket pieces to seam allowances, 2 mm (a scant 1/8 in) from marked seam lines.
Step 16- Press pocket pieces over attachment seams. Lay touser fronts on trouser backs, right sides facing. Pin side seams, matching seam marks and matching seam lines. Stitch seams, not stitching across pocket openings, between seam marks.
Step 17- Press seam allowances open. Press front pocket opening edges and topstitch close to edges.
Step 18- Turn pocket pieces toward trouser fronts. Pin pocket pieces together, trim even, and stitch together. Baste pockets to upper trouser edges. On each trouser front, stitch approx 5 mm (3/16 in) of closely spaced zigzag stitching at each end of pocket opening.
Step 19- Zip pocket, right trouser piece: With right sides facing, baste one pocket piece over marked pocket lines so that pocket piece extends 1.5 cm (5/8 in) past upper marking.
Step 20- Working from wrong side of trousers, stitch along marked lines. Slash between lines of stitching and clip into corners, close to stitching.
Step 21- Turn pocket piece to inside. Press. Pin zip under pocket opening edges, so that zip opens from front to back. Use your machine’s zipper foot to stitch pocket opening edges to zip tapes.
Step 22- On inside, pin second pocket piece to attached pocket piece, right sides facing. Stitch pocket pieces together along all edges. Neaten edges of allowances together.
Inside leg seams: Lay trouser fronts on trouser backs, right sides facing. Pin inside leg seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances open and neaten edges of allowances.
Step 23- Centre seam: Neaten seam allowances of centre back and front seam and slit edges as continuous lines of stitching. Turn one trouser leg right side out. Pull this trouser leg into the other, right sides facing. Beginning at slit mark, pin centre front seam then go on to pin centre back seam, matching inside leg seams. Stitch seam, tying off beginning and end of seam. Pull trouser legs apart again. Press seam allowances on slit edges to inside and press centre seam open, as far as beginning of crotch curve. Do not press allowances flat along crotch curve.
Lay back bib pieces together, right sides facing. Pin centre seam. Stitch. Neaten edges of seam allowances together and press allowances toward left piece. Topstitch left bib piece close to seam. On back bib and on front bib pieces, press allowances on side edges to wrong side, turn edges under to an allowance width of 1 cm (3/8 in), and baste in place. Lay back bib aside for the time being. On front bib pieces, neaten allowances on front edges. Press allowances on upper edges to inside, turn edges under to an allowance width of 1 cm (3/8 in), and baste in place. Topstitch front bib pieces close to side and upper edges and then again 7 mm (1/4 in) from these edges, beginning and ending at upper edge, 1.5 cm (5/8 in) before marked front edge.
Step 24- Straps: Fold each strap piece on fold line, right side facing in. Stitch edges together, leaving back angled end open. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally. Turn straps right side out. Press edges and topstitch close to edges. Pin back strap ends to upper edge of back bib piece (seam number 7) and stitch along marked line. Neaten seam allowances together and press onto bib. Topstitch close to bib edges and again and 7 mm (1/4 in) from bib edges.
Step 25- Attach bib, upper trousers edge: On trouser fronts, open allowances on front edges flat forward again. Pin front bib pieces to upper edges of trouser fronts, right sides facing. Pin back bib to upper edge of trouser back, matching centres. On facing pieces, pin centre back seam and side seams. Stitch seams. Press seam allowances open. Neaten inside facing edge. Pin facing to upper trousers edges, right sides together, catching bib pieces. Stitch as pinned. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing to inside and turn bib pieces up. Press upper trousers edge and topstitch 5 mm (3/16 in) from upper edge. Sew inside facing edges to seam allowances by hand.
Step 26- ■ Zip: For sizes 42 and 44, shorten zip to match slit edges. For all sizes, press allowances on slit edges to inside. On inside, lay zip face down on allowances of slit edges so that teeth of zip begin at marked upper bib edge and end at fold edge. Pin zip tapes in place, not catching bib or trouser pieces. Open seam allowances with zip flat forward. Stitch zip tapes to seam allowances, stitching close to teeth and again 5 mm (3/16 in) from teeth (26). Fold ends of zip tapes over seam allowance on upper bib edge. Fold slit allowances with zip to inside and pin in place. Working from outer side of garment, topstitch 1.5 cm (5/8 in) from slit edges (buttonhole thread), at lower end of slit angling stitching toward centre seam, as marked on pattern.
Press each hem allowance to inside and turn edge under to a hem allowance width of 2.5 cm (1 in). Topstitch 2 cm (3/4 in) from lower edge of each trouser leg, catching the hem. Attach strap fasteners to front ends of straps. Attach buttons to bib, catching small pieces of folded fabric on inside of bib, for reinforcement.
Even if your not going ‘back to school’ you can still get the look! I always have a slight shift in style in september. Here I have made a little collage of how I would style this pair of overalls, and I just like a plaid jacket like this one to wear overtop. Overalls are super casual (a style I am very fond of), I love to be comfy and a bit edgy.