Here is an easy to follow sewing lesson for our Drawstring Jacket sewing pattern that debuted in our Freshly Cut pattern collection from the April 2011 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this blowsy windbreaker.
Everybody need a windbreaker for this time of year, whether it is to shield your self from the windy beach or the traffic of the big city. Not every jacket for this type of use needs to be unstylish though! This drawstring jacket has all the style and features you need like pockets, a gathered style sleeve, and drawstrings to bring in the hemline. I can’t wait to make this jacket in that neon green nylon I spotted at the fabric store over the weekend!
Refer to this pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance, which can be found in the instructions after purchase.
Step 1- In-seam pockets, horizontal front seams: Pin pocket pieces each right sides together with pocket opening edges of upper and lower front pieces. Stitch pocket pieces to seam allowances, close to marked seam line.
Step 2- Turn pocket pieces over seam allowances. Press. Lay lower fronts right sides together with upper fronts. Pin horizontal seams. Stitch, leaving openings for pockets between seam marks.
Step 3- Press seams open and press lower edges of pocket openings.
Step 4- Press pocket pieces down, pin together, and stitch. Press allowances on front edges to inside.
Step 5- Back horizontal seam: Lay lower back right sides together with upper back. Pin horizontal seam. Stitch. Press seam allowances open. Side seams: Lay fronts right sides together with back. Pin side seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances open.
Step 6- Sleeves: Lay sleeve front pieces right sides together with sleeve back pieces. Pin upper sleeve seams. Stitch.
Step 7- Press seam allowances open. Gather upper edges of lower sleeve pieces. Machine baste (longest stitch setting) to each side of marked seam line. Hold bobbin threads and gather the fabric together along these threads, to match lower edges of upper sleeve pieces. Knot threads. Distribute gathering evenly.
Step 8- Pin lower sleeve pieces right sides together with lower edges of upper sleeve pieces. Stitch. Press seam allowances up. Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin lower sleeve seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances open.
Gather lower sleeve edges, as follows:
size 36: 44 cm (17 1/4 ins),
size 38: 45 cm (17 3/4 ins),
size 40: 46 cm (18 1/8 ins),
size 42: 47 cm (18 1/2 ins),
size 44: 48 cm (19 ins).
Knot threads. Distribute gathering evenly.
Step 9- Stitch long edges of lower sleeve lining pieces together, right sides facing. Press seam allowances open. Pin lining pieces right sides together with lower edges of fabric sleeves, matching seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances onto sleeve linings. To form elastic casing, topstitch sleeve lining 1.2 cm (1/2 in) from joining seam, leaving a section of seam open, for elastic.
Step 10- Pull elastic (30 cm/12 ins long) into casings. Sew ends of each elastic together. Stitch remainder of seam. Place sleeve linings inside sleeves, wrong sides facing, and pin over horizontal seams of sleeves. Stitch lining to seam allowances, close to seams, stitching as close as possible to sleeve seams.
Step 11- Setting in sleeves: Pin sleeves to armhole edges, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (5) on sleeve back piece and back. Also match side seams, sleeve seams, and seam marks (6) on sleeve front and front. Baste sleeves in place. Stitch as basted. Press seams open, from upper edges to beginning of underarm curve.
Gather neck edge: Turn allowance on front edge of each front piece out flat again.
Gather fronts from * to sleeve seam and gather sleeves and back from each seam to seam along neck edge.
Finished width of front:
size 36: 10.5 cm (4 1/8 ins),
size 38: 10.7 cm (4 1/4 ins),
size 40: 10.9 cm (4 5/16 ins),
size 42: 11.1 cm (4 3/8 ins),
size 44: 11.3 cm (4 7/16 ins).
Finished front width of sleeves:
size 36: 6.4 cm (2 1/2 ins),
size 38: 6.5 cm (2 9/16 ins),
size 40: 6.6 cm (2 5/8 ins),
size 42: 6.7 cm (2 1/16 ins),
size 44: 6.8 cm (2 3/4 ins).
Finished back width of sleeves: 5.8 cm (2 1/4 ins) for all sizes.
Finished width of back:
size 36: 19.4 cm (7 5/8 ins),
size 38: 20.2 cm (8 ins),
size 40: 21 cm (8 3/8 ins),
size 42: 21.8 cm (8 5/8 ins),
size 44: 22.6 cm (8 7/8 ins).
Knot gathering threads. Distribute gathering evenly.
Step 12- Hem: Press hem allowance to inside. Turn hem allowance down flat again. Work a 1.5 cm (5/8 in) long opening for drawstring (like a buttonhole) in hem allowance, 2.5 cm (1 in) from marked front edge and 1 cm (3/8 in) from fold edge. Fold hem allowance to inside again and pin. Working from right side of garment, stitch 2 cm (3/4 in) from lower edge.
Step 13- Right band: Fold band in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch lower edges together. Trim seam allowances. Turn band right side out. Press. Pin band right sides together with joining line on right front – open edges point toward front edge. Stitch band in place. Trim seam allowances of band to 5 mm (3/16 in) wide. Leave band lying on front for now. Fold allowances on front edges to inside and baste.
Facing, zip and lining: Work openings for drawstrings (like buttonholes) in lower edges of facings, as marked on pattern.
Step 14- Pin each half of zip to right side of facing so that zip tape meets marked front edge. Zip teeth point toward inside edge of facing and begin at marked neck edge. Use the zipper foot of your sewing maching to stitch zip tape in place, 7 mm (1/4 in) from teeth of zip. Press front facing edges to inside along stitching line and continue to lower edge, at the same width. Teeth of zip extend at front edge.
Step 15- Pin shoulder edges of back facing piece to shoulder edges of front facings, right sides together. Stitch. Press seam allowances open.
On lining, stitch side seams and sleeve seams. Press seam allowances open. Set in sleeve linings. Gather upper edges of lining, gathering edges of fronts from * .
Pin lining right sides together with inside edge of facing, matching top sleeve seams to shoulder seams. Distribute gathering evenly. Stitch. Press seam allowances onto lining. Press allowance on lower edge of facing to inside and continue to press lower edge of lining to inside.
Step 16- Sew zip with facing and lining in place: Pin facing with lining to jacket, wrong sides facing, so that teeth of zip meet front edges. Match shoulder seams of facing to top sleeve seams. Baste along front and neck edges. Topstitch 7 mm (1/4 in) from front edges, catching facings. On right front, press band forward and topstitch 7 mm (1/4 in) from joining seam.
Step 17- Push lower edge of lining up in a shallow curve and pin to hem allowance of jacket. Sew lining and lower edges of facing in place by hand. Turn in lower edges of sleeve linings, pin to horizontal seams of sleeves, and sew in place by hand.
Step 18- Standing collar: Pin interfaced collar piece to neck edge of jacket, right sides facing – at left front, collar extends from centre front. Stitch.
Step 19- Press seam allowances onto collar. Lay second collar piece on attached collar piece, right sides facing, and pin together along upper edges and front edges. Stitch. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally.
Step 20- Turn collar right side out. Baste edges. Turn in inside collar piece, pin to joining seam, and sew in place by hand. At left end of collar, turn lower edges under and sew together. Fasten collar with the snap fastener, taking even stitches on right end of collar and exiting needle on right side of fabric.
Cord: Pull cord into hem edge, through openings in casing (facing and hem allowance). Knot ends of cord.
This jacket is so versatile to wear and I like it especially over a nice dress like this Cap Sleeve Shift Dress.