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You can do it! Even sewing beginners can sew this double-breasted, 60s-style jacket. Just take it one step at a time and follow this sewing lesson to make our Double Breasted Jacket pattern that debuted in our Retro Mix pattern collection from the August 2017 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this jacket for fall.

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Fabric colors
Step 1 2 3 4


Step 1: CUT PIECES FROM MAIN FABRIC
Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in, so that the selvages lie together. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in the cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark seam and hem allowances, as follows: 4 cm (15/8") for hem and sleeve hem and 1.5 cm (5/8") at all other seams and edges. Cut out fabric pieces along these chalk lines.

Step 2: THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half lengthwise, adhesive side facing in. Pin pattern pieces 22, 25, and 30 – 35 to the interfacing (piece 31 twice). Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances. Cut out pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of fabric pieces. In addition, cut 4 cm (15/8") wide interfacing strips. Iron to wrong sides of hem allowances on front, back, and sleeve pieces.

Step 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC
Lay or fold interfaced pieces together again, right sides facing. Pin paper pattern pieces to these pieces. On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to wrong side of fabric. Follow manufacturer’s instructions. Hand baste along hem lines, pocket placement lines, and centre front lines, to make them visible on right side of fabric.

Step 4: CUT OUT LINING PIECES
Fold lining fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 23, 27 – 29, and 36 – 38 to the lining fabric. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark seam allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Cut out lining pieces along these chalk lines. Transfer pattern outlines to lining pieces, with the help of dressmaker’s carbon paper.


Step 5


Step 5: FRONT YOKES
Pin front yoke pieces to front pieces, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (1). Stitch as pinned, on right front leaving the buttonhole open, between slit marks (arrows). Tie-off ends of seams, with backstitching. Clip allowances along curves. Clip allowance of right front at centre front. Press seam open, from front edge to centre front; press remaining allowances toward yokes.


Step 6


Step 6: SIDE FRONT SEAMS
Pin darts in center front pieces. Stitch each dart from edge to point. Press darts down. Lay side fronts on centre fronts, right sides facing. Pin side front seams, matching seam numbers (2). Stitch side front seams. Press seams open.


Step 7


Step 7: JACKET BACK
With right sides facing, lay upper center back pieces together and lay lower center back pieces together. Stitch centre back seams. Press seams open. Stitch band to upper and lower center back units, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (3 and 4). Press seam allowances toward band. Lay side backs on center back, right sides facing. Pin side back seams, matching seam numbers (5). Stitch. Press seams open.


Step 8


Step 8: SHOULDER SEAMS /ATTACH COLLAR STANDS
Lay jacket fronts on jacket back, right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams (forwarded), matching seam numbers (6). Stitch shoulder seams. Press seam allowances toward back. Pin each collar stand piece to collar piece, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (7). Stitch as pinned. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Press seams open. Topstitch close to both sides of each seam.


Step 9


Step 9: COLLAR
Pin collar pieces together, right sides facing. Stitch edges together. Trim seam allowances and clip allowances on curves. Turn collar right side out. Baste seamed edges and press. Baste upper collar (interfaced) to under collar, with angled basting stitches, curving the collar as you do so.


Step 10


Step 10: BASTE COLLAR IN PLACE /SIDE SEAMS
Baste collar to neck edge of jacket, between seam marks. Marked centers must match and seam numbers (8) must match. The under collar must lie toward the jacket. Lay jacket fronts on jacket back, right sides facing. Pin side seams. Stitch side seams. Press seams open.


Step 11


Step 11: SLEEVES
Stitch dart in each upper sleeve, stitching from edge to point. Knot threads at points of darts. Press dart seams open, press points of darts fl at. Lay each under sleeve on upper sleeve, right sides facing. Pin back sleeve seams, matching seam numbers (11). Stitch seams. Press seams open. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin front sleeve seams, matching seam numbers (12). Stitch seams. Press seams open. Fold sleeve hem allowances to inside, baste, and press. Sew hems loosely in place by hand.


Step 12


Step 12: SET IN SLEEVES
Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing, slightly easing the sleeve cap between the marked dots. The dart on sleeve cap must meet the seam mark on the jacket back. Seam marks (13) on upper sleeve and jacket front must match. Working from the sleeve side, stitch sleeve in place. Trim seam allowances. In the area of the sleeve cap, lay allowances toward sleeve. Try jacket on and pin shoulder pads in place. Hand sew shoulder pads to allowances of shoulder seams and sleeve attachment seams.


Step 13


Step 13: POCKETS
Stitch each pocket lining piece to self-facing on upper edge of pocket piece, right sides facing, leaving 4 cm (15/8") open, for turn-ing. Turn facing to outside, on marked fold line. Stitch lining and narrow facing edges to pocket. Trim seam allowances, trimming diagonally across corners. Clip allowances on curves. Turn pocket right side out and press. Work decorative stitching (see Step 19). Baste pockets to jacket fronts, to meet marked placement lines. Sew in place by hand, as invisibly as possible.


Step 14


Step 14: FLAPS
Pin each interfaced flap piece to a flap piece with no interfacing, right sides together. Stitch edges together as illustrated. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Turn flaps right side out and press. On attachment edge of each fl ap, trim allowances to 0.5 cm (3/16") wide and finish edges together. Work decorative stitching (see Step 19). Pin each flap, outer side down, to jacket front, above pocket, as shown. Stitch flap in place. Tie-off ends of seam, with backstitching. Press flaps down.


Step 15


Step 15: SEW LINING PIECES TOGETHER
Lay lining center back pieces together, right sides facing. Stitch centre back seam and stitch as marked, to form the ease pleat. Press pleat to one side. Sew lining pieces together, matching seam numbers. Set sleeves in lining. Press allowances on hem edge of lining and hem edges of sleeve linings to wrong side.


Step 16


Step 16: FACING
Lay back facing piece on front facing pieces, right sides together. Stitch shoulder seams. Press seams open. Pin lining to inner facing edge, right sides together, matching seam numbers (15). The shoulder seams of facing meet shoulder marks (seam marks) on lining back. Stitch as pinned, beginning and ending approx. 10 cm (4") above the lower edge (arrows). Trim seam allowances. Clip lining allowances. Press allowances toward lining.


Step 17


Step 17: LINE THE JACKET
Pin facing to the jacket, right sides together. Stitch edges together, catching the collar between jacket and facing. Trim seam allowances, trimming diagonally across corners. On jacket fronts, trim hem allowances, ending 2 cm (¾") from facing edges. Clip allowances on curves. Turn facing to inside. Pull lining into jacket, wrong sides facing. Baste edges and press.


Step 18


Step 18: HEM / SEW LINING IN PLACE
Fold jacket hem allowance to inside, baste, and press. Sew hem loosely in place by hand. Slide lower edges of lining and sleeve linings up slightly and sew to hem/sleeve hems by hand. Lay extra length of lining down, in a small fold. Sew remaining lining edges to front facings. Sew front facings to hem.


Step 19


Step 19: DECORATIVE STITCHING
With buttonhole thread, hand stitch decorative stitches 1 cm (3/8") from the outer collar edges. Make stitches and spaces between stitches even (approx. 5 mm/ 3/16" long). Tip: First test the thread and stitch length on a doubled piece of fabric. Mark the distance from the fabric edge with a vanishing marker. In the same manner, also work decorative stitching along side and lower edges of yoke, edges of pockets and flaps, and edges of back bands.


Step 20


Step 20: DECORATIVE STITCHING
On the right jacket front, insert straight pins from the outside in the ends of the buttonhole in the yoke seam to mark these ends on the facing. At these points, insert two vertical straight pins in the facing. Cut facing horizontally, ending 3 mm (1/8") from each straight pin, then clip diagonally 3 mm (1/8") long, from ends of cut to straight pins. Turn cut edges under and pin in place. Sew in place by hand.


Step 21


Step 21: BUTTONHOLES / BUTTONS
Mark upper buttonhole and upper button position on each jacket front, the same distance from neck edge as marked for size 34 (see paper pattern piece 22). The lowest button-hole and button position apply for all sizes. Work horizontal buttonholes in right jacket front, beginning each at marked x. Work upper button-hole also in left jacket front. Sew buttons in place (see photo). Sew fl at inside button to facing of right jacket front.


jacket image 3


back jacket image 2


jacket image 1

FINISHED!


Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Printed Romper.

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