Here is an easy to follow sewing lesson for our Diagonal Lines Dress sewing pattern that debuted in the February 2012 issue of Burda Style magazine in our recently updated Stop Traffic pattern collection. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this edgy asymmetrical dress!
As soon as I saw just the technical for this dress I knew I just had to make it. The paneling makes this dress so unique and gives us the sewer the ability to block many different fabrics together. Just remember though that this dress is meant to stretch jersey fabrics.
Refer to this pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance, which can be found in the instructions after purchase.
Before you start sewing make sure you read and follow all the steps in the Preparation and Cutting Out sections of the pattern’s instructions. Place right sides of fabric together to baste and stitch. Stitch seams with a special stretch stitch with a narrow zigzag stitch. Tie-off beginning and end of seams by backstitching. Neaten seam allowances with an elastic zigzag stitch or with an overlock stitch.
Step 1- Stitch darts in back skirt piece. Press darts toward centre back.
Step 2- Lay side back pieces right sides together with the centre back pieces. Pin the section seams (seam number 5). Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.
Step 3- Lay these pieced units right sides together with the upper back pieces. Pin the upper section seams (seam number 6). Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.
Step 4- Lay the resulting pieced units right sides together with the back skirt panels. Pin the lower section seams (seam number 7). Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.
Step 5- Stitch bust dart in right front. Press dart down.
Step 6 and 6a- Lay the shoulder edges of the upper front pieces right sides together with the respective shoulder edges of the back pieces. Pin the shoulder seams (seam number 8). Stitch. Clip the seam allowances into the corners (arrow), close to line of stitching. Press the seam allowances open.
Step 7 and 7a- Neck edges: Lay the shoulder edges of the back facings right sides together with the shoulder edges of the front facings. Pin the shoulder seams. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open. Pin the facings right sides together with the neck edges of the corresponding front and back pieces. Stitch along the front edges, upper back edges, and centre back.
Step 8 and 8a-Trim the seam allowances, trimming diagonally across the corners. Turn the facings over the seam allowances and stitch to the seam allowances, as far as possible, close to the seam. Turn the facings to the inside. Press the edges and continue pressing to press the seam allowances on the back edges to the inside.
Step 9- Lay upper right front on upper left front to meet marked placment line – wrong fabric side faces right fabric side and centre fronts match. Pin neck edge in place. Work from inside to stitch lower facing edge of right front to left front. Baste lower edges of fronts together.
Step 10- Pin upper edge of upper left front skirt piece right sides together with centre front, from left side edge to centre front (seam number 3). Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.
Step 11- Pin the centre front skirt piece right sides together with centre front, beginning at right side edge (seam number 4), then continue pinning to pin centre front skirt piece to lower edge of upper left front skirt piece. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.
Step 12- Lay the lower front skirt piece on the centre front skirt piece and pin the section seam. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.
Step 13- Pin upper edge of the centre front right sides together with the lower edge of the front. Pin the section seam (seam number 2). Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.
Side seams and armholes: Lay the back units right sides together with the front. Pin the side seams, from the seam mark, and pin the upper section seams (seam number 9), down to the lower edges. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open and press allowances on armhole edges to inside. Sew the seam allowances to the armholes loosely by hand. For the pleat, fold the front onto the back, along the shoulder seam, and pin the marked stitching lines together. Stitch.
Step 14- Press the pleat so that centre of pleat meets the seam. Work from right side of garment to stitch exactly along line of seam. Open the allowances on the back edges again. Press the hem allowance to the inside and sew in place loosely by hand. Fold the allowances on the back edges to the inside again.
Step 15- Zip: Turn in top ends of zip tapes. Lay the zip tapes each face up on the back edges of the dress, beginning at the neck edge, so that the teeth of the zip lie exactly on back edges. Use the zipper foot of your sewing machine to stitch the zip tapes in place, next to the teeth of the zip and close to the edges of the zip tapes. Fasten the angled “fastening edge“ of the right front to the left front with 3 snap fasteners.
This dress is great for this time of year, that transition between winter and spring. The high neckline will look perfect under a coat like our Collarless Open Coat, you could even add a nice little matching belt to cinch in the waist. I also love it paired with this Quilted Jacket. I suggest sewing the dress in a multiple of fabric colors, and then accent the dress with simple accessories… and a killer pair of heels!