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Here is an easy to follow sewing lesson for our Diagonal Lines Dress sewing pattern that debuted in the February 2012 issue of Burda Style magazine in our recently updated Stop Traffic pattern collection. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this edgy asymmetrical dress!

As soon as I saw just the technical for this dress I knew I just had to make it. The paneling makes this dress so unique and gives us the sewer the ability to block many different fabrics together. Just remember though that this dress is meant to stretch jersey fabrics.

The pattern PDF for our Diagonal Lines Dress is the same as this Mandarin Inspired Dress. So you can follow along this sewing lesson for either dress style.

Refer to this pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance, which can be found in the instructions after purchase.

Before you start sewing make sure you read and follow all the steps in the Preparation and Cutting Out sections of the pattern’s instructions. Place right sides of fabric together to baste and stitch. Stitch seams with a special stretch stitch with a narrow zigzag stitch. Tie-off beginning and end of seams by backstitching. Neaten seam allowances with an elastic zigzag stitch or with an overlock stitch.

Step 1- Stitch darts in back skirt piece. Press darts toward centre back.

Step 2- Lay side back pieces right sides together with the centre back pieces. Pin the section seams (seam number 5). Stitch. Press the seam allow­ances open.

Step 3- Lay these pieced units right sides together with the upper back pieces. Pin the upper section seams ­(seam number 6). Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.

Step 4- Lay the resulting pieced units right sides together with the back skirt panels. Pin the lower section ­seams (seam number 7). Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.

Step 5- Stitch bust dart in right front. Press dart down.

Step 6 and 6a- Lay the shoulder edges of the upper front pieces right sides together with ­the respective shoulder edges of the back ­pieces. Pin the shoulder seams (seam number 8). Stitch. Clip the seam allow­ances into the corners (arrow), close to line of stitching. Press the seam allowances open.

Step 7 and 7a-  Neck edges: Lay the shoulder edges of the back facings right sides together with the shoulder edges of the front facings. Pin the shoulder seams. Stitch. Press the ­seam allow­ances open. Pin the fac­ings right sides together with the neck edges of the corresponding front and back pieces. Stitch along the front edges, upper back edges, and centre back.

Step 8 and 8a-Trim the ­seam allow­ances, trimming ­diagonally across the corners. Turn the facings over the seam allowances and stitch to the seam allowances, as far as possible, close to the seam. Turn the facings to the inside. Press the edges and continue pressing to press the seam allowances on the back edges to the inside.

Step 9- Lay upper right front on upper left front to meet marked placment line – wrong fabric side faces right fabric side and centre fronts match. Pin neck edge in place. Work from inside to stitch lower facing edge of right front to left front. ­Baste lower edges of fronts ­together.

Step 10- Pin upper edge of upper left front skirt piece right sides together with centre front, from left side edge to centre front (seam number 3). Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.

Step 11- Pin the centre front skirt piece right sides together with centre front, beginning at right side edge (seam number 4), then continue pinning to pin centre front skirt piece to lower edge of upper left front skirt piece. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.

Step 12- Lay the lower front skirt piece on the centre front skirt piece and pin the section seam. Stitch. Press the ­seam allowances open.

Step 13- Pin upper edge of the centre front right sides together with the lower edge of the front. Pin the section ­seam (seam number 2). Stitch. Press the seam allowances open.

Side seams and armholes: Lay the back units right sides to­gether with the front. Pin the side ­seams, from the seam mark, and pin the upper section seams (seam number 9), down to the lower edges. Stitch. Press the ­seam allow­ances open and press allowances on armhole edges to inside. Sew ­the ­seam allow­ances to the armholes loosely by hand. For the pleat, fold the front onto the back, along the shoulder seam, and pin the marked stitching lines to­gether. Stitch.

Step 14- Press the pleat so that centre of pleat meets the seam. Work from right side of garment to stitch exactly along line of seam. Open the allowances on the back edges again. Press the hem allow­ance to the inside and sew in place loosely by hand. Fold the allowances on the back edges to the inside again.

Step 15- Zip: Turn in top ends of zip tapes. Lay the zip tapes each face up on the back edges of the dress, beginning at the neck edge, so that the teeth of the zip lie exactly on back edges. Use the zipper foot of your sewing machine to stitch the zip tapes in place, next to the teeth of the zip and close to the edges of the zip ­tapes. Fasten the angled “fastening edge“ of the right front to the left front with 3 snap fasteners.

This dress is great for this time of year, that transition between winter and spring. The high neckline will look perfect under a coat like our Collarless Open Coat, you could even add a nice little matching belt to cinch in the waist. I also love it paired with this Quilted Jacket. I suggest sewing the dress in a multiple of fabric colors, and then accent the dress with simple accessories… and a killer pair of heels!

Happy Sewing!

Meg

6 Comments

  • Missing

    Apr 8, 2014, 12.13 PMby jerometwain

    Such awesome designs! I’d like to keep this collection in my list, I just really love all the outfits. – Mission Maids

  • Malindalloyd_large

    Mar 9, 2014, 03.30 PMby animegirlie

    I love this dress but have to do a full bust adjustment – I just don’t get how to do it with the front split where it is…..

  • Missing

    Mar 6, 2014, 02.13 PMby Stelle H

    Sort of off topic, but what happened to the link to download pattern instructions on the downloadable patterns? I would use these to figure out if I felt confident enough to make a garment – also it is sometimes easier to print them out rather than use the magazine instructions. I’m just really interested in hearing why they’re gone.

  • Missing

    Mar 5, 2014, 03.13 AMby jix

    How do I save this to my toolkit for later? Lessons in the blog should be available in the resources section!

    1 Reply
    • New_avatar_large

      Mar 5, 2014, 02.36 PMby MegH

      Great idea! I can add this to the resource section soon so you can save it in your toolkit.

  • 1609618_10202848284157938_1597185531_n_large

    Mar 4, 2014, 07.08 PMby nouvellegamine

    awesome. Thanks!

    • This is a question
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