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Time for a real challenge – but with these step-by-step instructions, you will have no trouble at all! Sew it for yourself and follow this sewing lesson to make our Diagonal Button Jacket pattern that debuted in our Cold Weather Fashion pattern collection from the November 2017 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this beautiful jacket.

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Fabric
Steps 1 2 3


Step 1: CUT PIECES OF MAIN FABRIC
Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in, so that the selvages lie together. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in cutting layout. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the hem and seam allowances, as follows: 4 cm (1 5/8") for hem and sleeve hem and 1.5 cm (5/8") at all other seams and edges. Cut out fabric pieces along these chalk lines. Draw the measured pieces a and b directly on the fabric, with tailor’s chalk and a ruler. Cut out the measured fabric pieces.

Step 2: THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half, adhesive side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 6, 7, and 8 to the interfacing. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allow­ances. Cut out pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of corresponding fabric pieces. In addition, cut strips of interfacing, 4 cm (1 5/8") wide, and iron to wrong sides of hem allowances on front, side, back, and sleeve pieces.

Step 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC
Lay pieces with interfacing together again, right sides facing, or fold in half again, right side facing in. On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer pattern out­lines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper. Hand baste along the hem lines, pocket lines, and centre front to make these lines visible on right side of fabric.


Steps 4 5


Step 4: CUT OUT LINING PIECES
Fold lining fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 2, 4, 5, 6, 9, and 10 to the lining fabric. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Draw the measured pocket piece (b) directly on the lining fabric. Cut out lining pieces along these chalk lines. Transfer pattern outlines to lining pieces, with dressmaker’s carbon paper.


Step 5: CUT FRONT PIECES
Cut each front piece along marked pocket line, ending 1 cm (3/8") before the front pocket end marked for your size (arrow). Trim away allowance on remaining lower edge, next to the dart, as illustrated. Then cut along the centre of the dart, between the marked dart lines, ending approx. 2 cm (3/4") before the point of the dart.


Step 6


Step 6: DARTS / BASTE POCKET OPENINGS CLOSED
Fold each front piece, right side facing in, and pin dart lines together. Stitch dart from lower end to point. Trim dart allowances to 0.7 cm (1/4"). Press dart open, pressing point of dart flat. Hand sew pocket opening edges together, with herringbone stitches.


Step 7


Step 7: SIDE FRONT SEAMS / FLAPS
Stitch side pieces to front pieces, right sides facing. Press seams open. Mark extension of pocket line on each side piece, total length = 14 cm (5 1/2"). Hand baste along line to make it visible on right side of fabric. Iron a strip of interfacing, 4 cm x 16 cm (1 5/8″ × 6 1/4"), to inside, over marked line (see Step 9). Stitch flap lining pieces to flap pieces of main fabric, right sides together. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Turn flaps right side out and press. Trim allowances of flap attachment edges to 0.5 cm (3/16") wide.


Step 8


Step 8: SLASHED POCKETS WITH FLAPS
Baste each flap, outer side down, to jacket front and side so that straight edge meets slash line. The front flap end lies 1 cm (3/8") in front of slash end. Stitch 0.5 cm (3/16") from flap edge to attach. Tie-off ends of seam. On right fabric side, mark an auxiliary line 1.5 cm (5/8") below slash line, with tailor’s chalk. Press welt strip in half length-wise and baste in place so that fold edge meets auxiliary line. Stitch 0.5 cm (3/16") from fold edge to attach, beginning and ending stitching 0.5 cm (3/16") before ends of flap stitching line.


Step 9


Step 9: ATTACH POCKET LINING PIECES
Slash each side piece between stitching lines, ending 1 cm (3/8") before end of flap stitching line. Clip front and side pieces diagonally from ends of opening to ends of stitching lines, as illustrated, thereby forming small triangles. Baste each pocket lining piece to inside so that the 17 cm (6 3/4") long edge lies over welt attachment seam. Working from the outer side, stitch along welt attachment seam, thereby catching the lining piece. Press lining piece down.


Step 10


Step 10: ATTACH POCKET PIECES OF MAIN FABRIC
Fold fabric triangles on ends of pocket opening to wrong side. Baste each pocket piece of main fabric to inside so that the 17 cm (6 3/4") long edge lies over the flap attachment seam. Working from the outer side, stitch along flap attachment seam, thereby catching the pocket piece. Trim pocket and lining pieces even and pin together. Working from lining side, stitch edges together, stitching across triangles. Tie-off seam ends.


Step 11


Step 11: CENTER BACK SEAM / SIDE BACK SEAMS
Stitch center back seam. Press seam open. Lay side back pieces on centre back unit, right sides facing. Pin side back seams. Stitch seams as pinned. Press seams open.


Step 12


Step 12: SHOULDER SEAMS (FORWARD)
Lay jacket fronts on jacket back, right sides facing. Stitch shoulder seams. Press seams open. Lay back facing piece on front facing pieces, right sides together. Stitch shoulder seams. Press seams open.


Step 13


Step 13: SEW SLEEVES
Lay each under sleeve piece on upper sleeve piece, right sides facing. Pin back sleeve seam, matching seam numbers (5). Stitch seam. Press seam open. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in, and pin front sleeve seam, matching seam numbers (6). Stitch seam. Press seam open. Fold sleeve hem allowance to inside, baste, and press. Sew sleeve hem loosely in place by hand.\


Step 14


Step 14: SET IN SLEEVES
Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing, easing the sleeve cap. The seam mark on sleeve cap must meet shoulder mark on jacket back. The seam marks 7 on upper sleeve and jacket front must match. Working from the sleeve side, stitch sleeve in place. Trim seam allowances. In the area of the sleeve cap, lay allowances toward sleeve. Try jacket on and pin shoulder pads in place. Hand sew shoulder pads to allowances of shoulder seams and sleeve attachment seams.


Step 15


Step 15: SEW THE LINING
Lay lining backs together, right sides facing. Stitch centre back seam and stitch along marked lines, to form ease pleat. Press pleat to one side. Stitch lining pieces together, matching seam numbers. Set in sleeve linings. Press allowances on lower edges of lining and sleeve linings to wrong side.


Step 16


Step 16: STITCH LINING TO FACING
Pin lining to inner facing edge, right sides together, matching seam numbers (9) and matching shoulder seams. On lining fronts, lay extra length in small folds, as marked (arrows). Stitch lining to facing, beginning and ending approx. 10 cm (4") from lower edge (arrows). Trim seam allowances. On back neck edge, clip lining allowance several times. Press allowances toward lining.


Step 17


Step 17: LINE THE JACKET
Pin facing with lining to jacket, right sides together. Stitch edges together. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. On jacket fronts, trim allowance on hem edge only up to 2 cm (3/4") from facing edges. Turn facing to inside. Pull lining into jacket, wrong sides facing. Baste edges and press.


Step 18


Step 18: SEW HEM / LINING IN PLACE
Turn hem allowance to inside, baste, and press. Sew hem loosely in place by hand. Sew facings to hem. Slide lower edges of lining and sleeve linings up slightly and sew to hem or sleeve hem by hand. Lay extra length of lining down, as a small fold. Sew remaining lining edges to front facings.


Step 19


Step 19: BUTTONHOLES
On right jacket front, mark the x for the upper buttonhole the same distance from upper edge as marked for size 34 (see paper pattern piece 1). The lowest x is at the same place for all sizes. Mark remaining x’s between upper and lower x’s, spaced evenly apart. Work horizontal buttonholes, beginning at marked x’s. Work upper buttonhole also in left jacket front.


Step 20


Step 20: SEW BUTTONS IN PLACE
Pin right jacket front to left jacket front, matching centre fronts. Mark button positions. Sew buttons in place. Sew fl at inner button to facing of right jacket front, not inserting needle through to outer side.


Jacket Finished


FINISHED!!


Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Pleated Skirt.

4 Comments

  • Missing

    Jan 11, 2018, 02.55 AMby cwical

    Nice use of colors and texture/shading in steps of instructions. Wish all instructions were this clear.

  • Wp_20171105_01_35_20_pro_large

    Dec 18, 2017, 12.42 AMby nrobson

    impressive jacket! and super great that burda has the illustrated instructions/lesson included with this :))

  • Thmnw20hh8_large

    Dec 17, 2017, 12.40 PMby Frenchy-C

    I love how these picture tutorial/ instructions are done, like all the big name paper patterns…I wish these instructions accompanied all downloadable Burda patterns, since the graphics are already on the Burda paper patterns. The instructions are definately a huge weakness of the patterns on this site. I am hoping that with enough feedback on those instructions that Burdastyle will eventually have those nice pictures…like all the other patterns. Dreaming of that day! Happy sewing xxx

    1 Reply
    • 10509522_1529554523984056_9144133056377517393_n_large

      Dec 17, 2017, 06.59 PMby Jessica Taylor

      I agree, the downloadables definitely need pictures instead of just a big paragraph of text. With all my burda patterns i’m just guessing how to sew it most of the time!

    • This is a question
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