Here is an easy to follow sewing lesson for our Cropped Jacket sewing pattern that debuted in the February 2011 issue of Burda Style magazine in our recently updated Havana Nights pattern collection. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this Jacket!
Every woman needs a cropped jacket, as it is a staple layering piece and really gives off that “put together” look. I love the style of this jacket, as it is classic and has a hidden closure. You can also also sew our Cropped Jacket with Buttons using this tutorial, as they are the same pattern PDF. Just substitute the hook and eye closure for buttons and buttonholes.
Sew it in a bright floral, or keep it neutral by sewing it in black, grey, or beige. I think when I make this blazer I am going to sew it in a plaid!
Refer to this pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance, which can be found in the instructions.
Before you start sewing make sure you read and follow all the steps in the Preparation and Cutting Out sections of the pattern’s instructions.
Step 1- For the darts, fold upper back and upper front pieces each so that dart lines meet. Pin dart lines together. Stitch, beginning at upper edge for shoulder darts and at lower edge for remaining darts. Do not backstitch at point of darts but knot ends of threads securely. Press darts toward centre.
Step 2- Section seams on lower front and back pieces: Lay lower side front pieces right sides together with lower centre front pieces. Pin front section seams. Stitch.
Step 3- Lay lower side back pieces right sides together with lower centre back piece. Pin section seams from upper edges to slit mark. Stitch. Press seam allowances open and neaten edges, also neating allowances at slit edges.
Step 4- Pin lower fronts right sides together with lower edge of upper front and pin lower back to upper back, matching section seams to dart seams. Stitch. Neaten seam allowances together and press up.
Step 5- Shoulder seams: Lay fronts right sides together with back. Pin shoulder seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances open and neaten edges.
Step 6- Sew collar: Pin collar band pieces right sides together with collar pieces – noting seam number 6. Stitch.
Step 7- Trim seam allowances and press open. Topstitch close to each side of seams. Lay collar pieces right sides together. Pin collar band joining seams and collar joining edges together exactly. Roll the under collar to add the required extra fullness to the top collar. Pin outer collar edges together to about 5 cm (2 ins) before corners – seam lines do not match.
Step 8- Roll corners of collar and pin remaining edges of collar together.
Step 9- Working from under collar side, stitch outer edges of collar together, beginning and ending exactly at marked collar joining seam. Trim allowances, trimming corners diagonally. Turn collar right side out. Press.
Step 10- Sew front edges, lapels, collar in place: Pin shoulder edges of front facings right sides together with shoulder edges of back facing. Stitch shoulder seams.
Step 11- Press seam allowances open. Neaten inside edge of facing. Lay facings right sides together with jacket. Pin along lapel fold lines and pin to collar joining marks (seam number 7). Pin front edges together, from lapel fold lines to lower edges. Roll fronts on fold line, to addd the required fullness to lapels. Pin facing in place, to about 5 cm (2 ins) before corners of lapels. Then roll corners of lapels and pin. Stitch fronts to facings, from collar joining marks. Secure start and end of seams.
Step 12- Leave facings lying right sides together with jacket for now. Lay collar between jacket and facing. Pin undercollar to neck edge of jacket, from each marking to corner, and pin top collar to facing. Stitch.
Step 13- Clip seam allowance of fronts and facing into corners. Pin long edge of undercollar to neck edge of jacket and pin top collar to facing. Stitch.
Step 14- Trim seam allowances – also at front edges – trimming corners of lapels diagonally. Press collar joining seams open. Turn facing to inside. Press edges. Pin collar joining seams together exactly. Lay back facing up and stitch seam allowances together, close to collar joining seam. Lay facing down again. Side seams: Lay fronts right sides together with back. Pin side seams, matching horizontal seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances open and neaten edges.
Step 15- Hem: Unfold facings at hem. Neaten hem allowance. Press hem allowance to inside and sew in place loosely by hand. Press allowances on slit edges of back section seams to inside and sew to hem allowance.
Step 16- View A only, Hook tape: Turn in top and bottom ends of tape, close to each last hook, for a finished length of 15 cm (6 ins). Pin hook tape to facing of right front so that hooks lie over centre front and point toward front edge. The tape begins 6 cm (2 3/8 ins) above horizontal seam. Edgestitch front edges and narrow ends of tape in place. Views A and B: Fold facings to inside again and sew to hem allowance.
Step 17- Sleeves: Stitch darts in undersleeves. Press darts down. Lay undersleeves right sides together with upper sleeves. Pin back sleeve seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances open and neaten edges.
Step 18- To ease sleeve caps, stitch two lines of machine basting (longest stitch setting) to each side of marked seam line, from * to *. Do not yet pull bobbin threads.
Step 19- Fold sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin front sleeve seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances open and neaten edges. Neaten hem allowance. Press hem allowance to inside. Stitch hem loosely by hand.
Step 20- Setting in sleeves: First pin each sleeve right sides together with only the underarm curve of armhole, matching marking on undersleeve to side seam and matching markings 11 on upper sleeve and jacket front.
Step 21- Then pin shoulder marking on sleeve cap to the shoulder seam. Now ease the fabric of the sleeve cap along the bobbin threads of the machine basting until the sleeve matches the armhole. Pin sleeve cap in place, distributing the eased fullness evenly. Baste and stitch sleeves in place from the sleeve side. Neaten seam allowances together and lay toward sleeves.
View A only
Stitch close to side edges of hook tape on right front, catching front.
Hook eyelet tape onto hook tape. Turn in ends respectively. Lay right front on left front, matching centre fronts. Pin side edges of eyelet tape to left front. Unhook the hook tape from the eyelets. Stitch eyelet tape to left front, close to all edges.
View B only
Work buttonholes in right front. Sew buttons to left front to match.
I have put together some outfits with these stylish and tailored blazers. If your making a bright and patterned one like this jacket, try making a matching skirt and wearing it as a fun spring suit! I also love the look of a jacket with shorts, and even if it’s not that warm out yet you can always wear a pair of tights underneath.