Here is an easy to follow sewing lesson for our Cap Sleeve Dress with Faux Top sewing pattern that debuted in our Kind of Blue from the March 2014 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this edgy illusion dress.
This dress looks like a skirt suit from the front but has a streamlined look at the back. It’s a ladylike piece to wear when you want to look put together, especially in a springy print. I am in love with this dress design and how it looks like separates, I think though when I sew it would actually sew the top and the bottom in different fabrics/colors to play up the illusion.
Refer to this pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance, which can be found in the instructions after purchase.
Step 1- Front section seams: Lay side front pieces on centre front pieces, right sides facing. Pin section seams (seam number 1). Stitch seams. Lay side front peplum facings on centre front peplum facings, right sides together. Pin section seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances open.
Step 2- Neck edge and peplum edges, centre seam (front): Lay peplum facings on lower edges of front pieces, right sides together. Pin together lower edges and front edges, as continuous seams, up to seam marks. Stitch. Lay each front neck facing on neck edge, right sides together. Beginning at seam mark, pin together along front edge, then continue, pinning neck edges together, up to approx. 5 cm (2 ins) before sleeve attachment edge. Stitch.
Step 3- Fold each facing down or up at seam mark and pin in place.
Step 4- Lay centre front pieces together, right sides facing. Pin centre front seam between seam marks. Stitch.
Step 5- Remove pins from facings. Stitch centre front seam on peplum facing and neck facing.
Step 6- Unfold front – the facings lie right sides together with front again. Press allowances of centre seams – front and facings – open. On peplum, trim seam allowances on facing attachment edge. Turn peplum facing to inside. Press edges. Leave neck facing lying on the front, right sides together, for the time being.
Front skirt panel: Lay side front skirt pieces on centre front skirt piece, right sides facing. Pin section seams (seam number 2). Stitch. Press seam allowances open.
Step 7- Horizontal seam: Lay skirt front on peplum facing, right sides together. Pin and stitch marked seam lines on upper skirt edge and facing together, not catching fronts. Neaten seam allowances together. Sew upper skirt edge to seam allowances of centre front seam and section seams, with a few stitches. Baste side edges of skirt and peplum together.
Back section seams: Lay side back pieces on centre back pieces, right sides facing. Pin section seams (seam number 3). Stitch. Press seam allowances open.
Step 8- Invisible zip and centre back seam: Make a small clip in seam allowance edges of centre back pieces, to mark the slit. Open the zip and push the coil back with your thumbnail to reveal the line for stitching, between the tape and the coil. Place the open zip face down on the right fabric side of one slit edge. Distance from edge of zip tape to edge of fabric = 5 mm (3/16 in) (i.e. seam allowance width minus tape width). Pin top end of zip tape to edge of seam allowance – teeth of zip begin at marked neck edge. Place the presser foot on the zip so that the coil is in the notch to the right of the needle.
Step 9- Stitch zip to slit edge, down to the slit mark. Close the zip. Place the other zip tape face down on the second slit edge and pin the top in place.
Step 10- Open the zip again. Place the presser foot on the top end of the zip so that the coil is in the notch to the left of the needle. Stitch zip to second slit edge, down to the slit mark.
Step 11- Below the zip, lay the centre back pieces together, right sides facing. Pin the centre back seam from the lower edge to the slit mark, turning the loose zip end out of the way, over the seam allowance. Use your machine’s zipper foot to stitch the seam from the lower edge to as close to the last stitches of the zip —seams as possible. Press seam allowances open and neaten edge of allowances.
Side seams: Lay dress front on dress back, right sides facing. Pin side seams. Stitch. Press seam allowances open and neaten edges of allowances.
Step 12- Sleeves: Lay each sleeve front on sleeve back, right sides facing. Pin upper sleeve seam (seam number 7). Stitch seam, beginning exactly at marked neck edge. Press seam allowances open and neaten edges. Neaten hem allowance, press to inside, and sew in place loosely by hand.
Step 13- Attach sleeves, armholes: With right sides facing, pin each sleeve to armhole edge, from each upper edge to seam mark, matching seam numbers 8 on front armhole edge and 9 on back armhole edge. Stitch.
Step 14- Fold each facing strip (a – self drafted) in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in. Press. Pin facing strip to armhole edge, right sides together, so that open edges lie 5 mm (3/16 in) from seam allowance edge and ends lie on sleeve, approx. 1 cm (3/8 in) long. Stitch. Trim allowances of sleeve attachment seams to 1 cm (3/8 in) wide and trim close to facing attachment seams. Neaten edges of seam allowances of sleeve attachment seams. Turn facing strip to inside and press edge, then continue pressing to press allowances of sleeve attachment seams away from sleeves. Below each sleeve, topstitch 7 mm (1/4 in) from armhole edge.
Step 15- Neck edge: Pin shoulder edges of back facings to shoulder edges of front facings, right sides together. Stitch, beginning exactly at marked neck edge. Press seam allowances open. Neaten inside facing edges. Pin remaining front facing edges to front neck and sleeve edges and pin back facings to back sleeve and neck edges, turning back facing edges back, 5 mm (3/16 in) before marked seam line, and pinning in place. Fold allowances on slit edges of dress to outside, together with zip, and pin to neck edge, over the facing. Stitch along marked neck edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing up and stitch to seam allowances, close to attachment seam, stitching as close to zip or centre front seam as possible. Fold facing and slit allowances to inside. Turn facing edges under, pin to zip tapes, and sew in place by hand. Sew facing to seam allowances of sleeve seams.
Hem: Finish edge of hem allowance. Press hem allowance to inside and sew in place loosely by hand.
What a great dress style! I have styled it here for a cute daytime outing paired with our lightweight jacket, a fun bag and comfy flats!