Ultguide_webbanner_218x126

Learn How SIMPLE
Digital Patterns Really Are!

Sign Up to Receive
The Ultimate Guide to Digital Sewing Patterns eBook + a FREE Skirt Pattern!

Blouse_sewing_lesson_main_large

Follow this sewing lesson to make our Bow Neck Contrast Blouse pattern that debuted in our Blouse Bonanza pattern collection from the June 2017 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this blouse for any occasion.

Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.


Fabric
Step 1 2

Step 1: CUT OUT FABRIC PIECES
Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in, so that the selvages lie together. Pin pa-per pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in cut-ting layout, placing pattern pieces 2, 6, and 7 on the fabric fold. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Draw the measured pieces (a, b, and c) directly on the fabric, with chalk. Cut out fabric pieces.

Step 2: THE INTERFACING
Fold interfacing in half lengthwise, adhesive side facing in. Pin pattern pieces 4 to 7 to the interfacing as illustrated. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances to edges. Draw the measured piece c on the interfacing, with pencil. Draw pieces 4, 6, and 7 twice each. Cut out interfacing pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of corresponding fabric pieces.


Step 3


Step 3: TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC
Lay pieces with interfacing together again, right sides facing, or fold them, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces to these fabric pieces. On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow instructions included with the carbon paper. Hand baste along centre front and pocket placement lines (left front) to make them visible on the right side of the fabric.


Step 4


Step 4: POCKET WITH BAND
Baste piping to upper edge of one pocket piece, on right side of fabric, as illustrated, with the cord on the pocket and the fl at tape on the seam allowance. Pin pocket pieces together, right sides facing. Stitch edges together as illustrated. Trim seam allowances. Turn pocket right side out and press. Pin band to upper edge of pocket, right sides facing. Using your machine’s zipper foot, stitch band to pocket, stitching directly next to piping. Press band up. Press allowance on opposite long edge of band to wrong side.


Step 5


Step 5: STITCH POCKET IN PLACE
Fold pocket band in half, right side facing in. Stitch narrow edges closed. Trim seam allowances. Turn pocket band right side out and press. Hand sew inner edge of pocket band to attachment seam. Baste pocket to left blouse front, to meet marked placement line, and edgestitch in place.


Step 6


Step 6: SHOULDER SEAMS (FORWARD) WITH PIPING
From piping, cut 2 pieces, each to length of front shoulder edge. Baste piping pieces to shoulder edges of blouse fronts, with fl at tapes of piping on seam allowances. The piping cords lie on the front pieces, next to marked seam lines. Lay blouse fronts on blouse back, right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams. Stitch seams, using the zipper foot and stitching along piping attachment seams. At each seam, finish edges of allowances together and press allowances toward back.


Step 7


Step 7: SIDE SEAMS
For a neat fi nish, the side seams are stitched as French seams. With this type of seam, the allowances are hidden in the seam. First lay blouse fronts on blouse back, wrong sides facing. Pin side seams. Stitch edges together, 0.7 cm (1/4") from the edge. Press seams open. Then lay blouse fronts on blouse back, right sides facing – the seams lie along the folds. Stitch 0.7 cm(1/4") from the fold edges. Press seam allowances toward back.


Step 8


Step 8: HEM
Press hem allowance to wrong side, turn raw edge under by half the allowance width, and pin in place. Edgestitch hem in place.


Step 9


Step 9: FRONT EDGESFACINGS
Stitch piping to front edge of each blouse front. Fold lower edge of piping toward front edge, as illustrated. On each front facing, fi nish the inner edge. Press allowance on lower edge of each front facing to wrong side. Pin facings to front edges of blouse, right sides together, and stitch in place with the zipper foot. Turn facings to inside and baste in place. Hand sew lower facing edges to hem edge and sew upper ends to shoulder seams.


Step 10


Step 10: COLLAR WITH STAND
Stitch piping to outer edge of one collar
piece (= upper collar). Pin collar pieces together. Stitch edges together as shown. Trim seam allowances. Turn collar right side out and press. On one collar stand, press allowance on attachment edge (seam number 4) to wrong side. Pin this collar stand to upper collar, right sides facing (seam number 3). Pin second collar stand to opposite side of collar – right sides of collar stands are facing. Stitch collar stands together. Trim seam allowances, trimming diagonally across corners. Turn collar stand right side out and press.


STEP 11


Step 11: ATTACH COLLAR
Pin outer collar stand to neck edge of blouse, right sides facing (seam number 4). Stitch as pinned. Trim seam allowances and clip curves. Press allowances toward collar stand. Baste inner collar stand in place so that its edge extends past attachment seam, approx. 1 mm (1/16") wide. Working from the outer side, stitch along attachment seam, thereby catching the inner collar stand edge.


Step 12


Step 12: SLEEVE PLACKETS
Slash each sleeve as marked. Spread slash edges apart and pin, then stitch to bias strip as illustrated. Fold bias strip over edge, to inside, turn raw edge under, pin to attachment seam, and edgestitch in place – finished binding width = 7 mm (1/4"). Fold sleeve along slit, right side facing in, and stitch diagonally across strip at upper end of placket, as shown.


Step 13


Step 13: CUFFS
On front edge of each sleeve placket, turn binding strip to inside and pin in place. Lay pleat in lower edge of each sleeve and pin in place. Stitch sleeve seams as French seams (see step 7). Stitch piping to two cuff pieces. On the remaining two cuff pieces, press allowances on attachment edges to wrong side. Pin each cuff piece with no piping to a piece with piping, right sides together. Stitch edges together as shown. Trim seam allowances. Turn cuffs right side out and press.


Step 14


Step 14: STITCH CUFFS TO SLEEVES
Pin each cuff to lower edge of sleeve, right sides facing. Stitch cuff in place. Trim seam allowances and press allowances toward cuff. Baste inner edge of cuff in place so that it extends approx. 1 mm (1/16") over the attachment seam. Working from the outer side, stitch along the cuff attachment seam, thereby catching the inner edge.


Step 15


Step 15: STITCH CUFFS TO SLEEVES
Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing, observing three points: The seam marks (8) on sleeve and blouse front must match. The sleeve seam must meet the side seam. The seam mark on the sleeve cap must meet the shoulder mark on the blouse back. Stitch the sleeve in place, easing the sleeve cap evenly – make sure that no tucks are formed. Trim seam allowances and finish edges of allowances together. In the area of the sleeve cap, press allowances toward the sleeve.


Step 16


Step 16: BUTTONHOLES, BUTTONS
Work horizontal buttonholes in the right front edge and right end of the collar stand, beginning each at marked centre front. Also work buttonhole in front edge of each cuff. Cover the buttons with the blouse fabric (see manufacturer’s instructions). Tip: You can also have the buttons covered professionally or use small pearl buttons. Sew buttons in place.


Step 17


Step 17: TIE COLLAR
Fold each collar piece in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch edges together as illustrated. Trim seam allowances, trimming diagonally across corners. Turn collar pieces right side out and press. Lay pleat in end of each collar piece and pin in place.


Step 18


Step 18: STAND FOR TIE COLLAR
On the fabric strip for the stand (a) press narrow edges to wrong side, 1.5 cm (5/8") wide. Fold strip in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch open edges together, 1.5 cm (5/8") from edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn stand right side out and press. Slide pleated ends of tie collar pieces into open ends of the stand and pin in place. Edgestitch ends closed, catching the tie collar pieces.


pattern image


FINISHED!

Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Knot Dress.

0 Comments

    • This is a question
  1. Sign in to add a post

Departments

  • Editors' Pick
  • Pattern Collections
  • BurdaStyle Academy
  • Backstage Report
  • Fashion & Trends
  • DIY to Try
  • Tips & Techniques
  • Member Highlights
  • Sewing Projects
  • Outta Town
  • Contests & Competitions
  • Archive
  • Guest Columns
  • Videos
  • Meg's Magazine Mash Up
  • As Seen In
  • Podcast
  • Holiday Guide 2017