A classic cut with modern touches. This cropped bouclé jacket includes fringe details at the front bands and hems. Follow this sewing lesson to make our Bouclé Jacket sewing pattern that debuted in our Best of Bouclé pattern collection from the February 2017 issue of BurdaStyle Magazine. Check out all the great diagrams to help you sew this classic jacket.
Refer to the pattern’s store page here for specific fabric yardage and notion requirements. Also remember to add seam allowance (you can either add to the paper pattern before cutting or to the fabric around the pattern… see below), further info and amounts can be found in the instructions PDF after purchase.
Step 1- CUT PIECES OF MAIN FABRIC:
Fold fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in, so that the selvages lie together. Pin paper pattern pieces to the fabric as shown in cutting layout. Place pattern pieces 7 and 9 on the fabric fold. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Cut out fabric pieces along these chalk lines. Draw the measured pieces (a, b, and c) directly on the fabric, with tailor’s chalk. Cut out the measured fabric pieces.
Step 2- THE INTERFACING:
Fold interfacing in half widthwise, adhesive side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 12 to the interfacing. Add 1.5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances. Cut out pieces. Iron interfacing pieces to wrong sides of fabric pieces. Tip: The ironed-on interfacing prevents the fabric from fraying. On pieces with no interfacing, fi nish all edges with zigzag stitching, to prevent fraying. On each fringe strip (a, b, and c), fi nish one long edge with zigzag stitching.
Step 3- TRANSFER PATTERN MARKINGS TO THE FABRIC:
Lay pieces with interfacing together again, right sides facing. Pin paper pattern pieces to these fabric pieces. On all fabric pieces, use dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the instructions included with the carbon paper.
Step 4- CUT OUT LINING PIECES:
Fold lining fabric in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin paper pattern pieces 1 to 5, 10, and 11 to the lining fabric. With a ruler and tailor’s chalk, mark the seam allowances, as follows: 1.5 cm (5/8") at all seams and edges. Cut out lining pieces along these chalk lines. Transfer pattern outlines to lining pieces, with dressmaker’s carbon paper.
Step 5- JACKET FRONTS:
Lay side front pieces on centre front pieces, right sides facing. Pin side front seams, matching seam numbers (1). Stitch seams, slightly easing centre front pieces between dots. Press seams open. Pin front yoke pieces to jacket front units, right sides facing, matching seam numbers (2). Stitch yokes in place as pinned. Press seam allowances toward yokes.
Step 6- JACKET BACK:
Lay side back pieces on centre back pieces, right sides facing. Pin side back seams, matching seam numbers (3). Stitch seams. Lay back units together, right sides facing. Pin centre back seam. Stitch seam. Press all seams open. Iron Vilene Bias Tape/stay tape to wrong sides of neck and armhole edges so that line of chain stitch lies 1.5 cm (5/8") from fabric edge or so that edge of stay tape lies slightly over marked seam line.
Step 7- SHOULDER SEAMS AND SIDE SEAMS:
Lay jacket fronts on jacket back, right sides facing. Pin shoulder seams, matching seam numbers (4) and easing back shoulder edges. Pin side seams, matching seam numbers (5). Stitch all seams as pinned. Press seams open.
Step 8- FRINGE STRIP:
Baste the fabric strip © to front and neck edges of jacket, with wrong side of strip facing right side of jacket and making small folds at corners, as illustrated. The finished (zigzagged) edge of the strip must meet the outer fabric
edges of the jacket. Do not yet fray the strip.
Step 9- ATTACH BAND:
Lay front band pieces on back band piece, right sides facing. Stitch shoulder seams, matching seam numbers (6). Press seams open. Pin each front band to front edge of jacket, right sides facing. Stitch each front band in place, from lower edge to corner. Clip allowances of bands into corners, close to stitching (arrow). Pin remaining band to neck edge, matching shoulder seams. Stitch as pinned. Trim seam allowances and clip allowances on curve. Press allowances toward band.
Step 10- SLEEVE SEAMS:
Lay each under sleeve piece on an upper sleeve piece, right sides facing. Pin back sleeve seams, matching seam numbers (9). Stitch seams. Press seams open. Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin front sleeve seams, matching seam numbers (10). Stitch seams. Press seams open.
Step 11- LOWER SLEEVE EDGES:
Pin each strip (a) to lower edge of sleeve, right sides facing. The ends of the strip must meet; trim strip ends if needed. On each sleeve facing piece, stitch narrow edges together, to form a ring. Press seams open. Pin each facing to lower sleeve edge, right sides together, matching facing seam to back sleeve seam. Stitch facing in place. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing to inside and baste in place. Hand sew facing loosely in place. Press lower sleeve edges.
Step 12- SET IN SLEEVES:
Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing. The seam mark on sleeve cap must meet shoulder seam. The seam marks (11) on upper sleeve and jacket front must meet. Ease the sleeve cap between the marked dots. Working from the sleeve side, stitch sleeve to armhole edge. Trim seam allowances. In the area of the sleeve cap, press allowances toward sleeve.
Step 13- SEW LINING, ATTACH BAND:
Stitch lining pieces together. Press allowances on lower edges of lining and sleeve linings to wrong side. Stitch second band unit to front and neck edges of lining, as described for Step 9, beginning and ending approx. 7 cm (2¾") from lower edge (arrow). Trim seam allowances. On curves, clip lining allowances. Turn band forward/up. Press seam allowances away from band.
Step 14- LOWER JACKET EDGE:
Pin the fringe strip (b) to lower edge of jacket, right sides facing – the front strip ends must meet the band attachment seams. Lay front hem facing pieces on back hem facing piece, right sides together. Stitch side seams. Press seams open.
Step 15- LINE THE JACKET:
On the jacket and lining, turn allowances on front band edges to wrong side and baste in place. Press these edges. Pin band with lining to jacket, right sides facing. Stitch together along neck edge. Trim seam allowances and clip allowances on curve. Pin lower band edges together. Pin hem facing to lower edge of jacket, right sides together – the facing ends lie on the band. Stitch facing to jacket along lower edge. Trim seam allowances.
Step 16- SEW LINING TO HEM FACINGS:
Turn jacket right side out. Turn hem facing to inside. Baste edges and press. Sew hem facing in place by hand. Slide lower lining edge up slightly and sew to hem facing by hand. Sew sleeve linings to sleeve facings in same manner. Lay extra length of lining and sleeve linings down, in small folds. Hand sew remaining front edges of lining to inner band edges. Sew front bands to hem facing.
Step 17- STITCH ZIPPER IN PLACE:
If needed, shorten zipper to correct length. Separate zipper halves. Turn upper ends of zipper tapes under. Lay each zipper half between edges of front bands so that zipper teeth are covered. Baste front edges closed. Using your machine’s zipper foot, stitch 0.7 cm (¼") from each front edge, thereby catching the zipper tape and the edge of the inner band.
Step 18- FRAY THE FABRIC STRIPS:
Fray all the fabric strips. To do this, use a blunt embroidery needle to draw out one woven thread then carefully pull the thread out. Carefully remove the woven thread, one by one.
Want more sewing lessons? Check out our last one here on our Leather Moto Jacket