London Fashion Week [ Central Saint Martins Ready-To-Wear ] Autumn/Winter 2009-10
Each year Central Saint Martins College of Art, London’s most promising source of pure, raw fashion talent, hosts a catwalk show for Fashion Design major’s body of work. This show attracts numerous international editors from around the globe, anxious to see what is NEXT for fashion design and who is behind it. 17 student designer collections are showcased with the chance to win £5,000 from the event’s sponsor, Harrods, as well as the chance to show off his or her collection in the store’s windows.
Isabella Blow discovered McQueen here. Katharine Hamnett graduated from CSM in 1969 and is famed for her political designs. Her slogan t-shirts are iconic to this day. John Galliano graduated in 1984. Giles Deacon graduated in 1992. He worked for Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Bottega Veneta and Gucci before setting up his own successful label in 2004.
What do you think of the current talent? Are these designer’s predicting what’s to come in your eyes? Are these looks wearable? Inspired? Desirable? Click here to view a slide show of my favourite looks from the show.
Feb 9, 2010, 06.08 PMby alisondahl
The sculptural yarn “loopy wool” looking coat (#2) has officially received the most votes according to the slide show.
Feb 3, 2010, 03.14 AMby indira
I was excited when the blog entry “Raw talent” at St Martins came up, but have to say: Very uninspiring!! There is nothing in it I remotely would like to wear!
Feb 2, 2010, 07.15 PMby lanvy-nyc
I would agree with maddog. The orange one is definitely for those cant imagine beyond the comfort-look. I cant imagine wearing the orange outfit except maybe to match my sister when she wears her snuggies. The rest are beautiful and are easily pulled into my wardrobe. While some people think paying $200 for 7 of mankind sensible, these (sans orange) are sensibly fashionable for my taste.
Feb 2, 2010, 05.53 PMby gedwoods
I’m always looking for interesting perspectives in fashions, turns of line or color that can be used to do something interesting. While I am not wild about the globality of any of these designs (except perhaps the grey loop dress in the slide show), I do see some particular details that I find inspiring. The asymetry of the orange skirt, with its very distinct and emphasized flare that offsets the bagginess of the top I find interesting along with its bright color statement. Dress number 2 doesn’t do much for me, except to notice that it uses a lot of structure that floats above the surface of the dress – this is a feature that could be of interest to adapt to something else some time. I don’t particularly care for the front of the middle dress, but I do like the way the back of the dress trails the ground leaving the front open. I like the sleeves on dress number 4, they break with the classic lines of the dress overall. The dress on the far right is “hip” in an interesting way – I especially like the way the shoulders and upper arms are sculpted. As I say, globally not anything I’d really be inspired by, but lots of features that lead the eye in interesting ways. My two cents.
Feb 1, 2010, 08.22 PMby maddog731
I think they are all inspiring except the orange and the tan! The black and grey one is absolutely amazing, it just pops out at you immediately. the white one reminds me of arcitecture for sure.
Jan 31, 2010, 10.11 PMby flowergirl22
hi,
I like the second dress from the right,, not the glasses,, i do agree the orange dress is nice. sort of shimmery , QUESTION,, whats the grey thing , second left,, looks like large loopy wool,,,
1 Reply
Feb 1, 2010, 07.28 PMby mlssfshn
Derek Lawlor his work is inspire by Japanese armor and Architecture. You can purchase his wok here if you have an extra $3000 just laying around!
Jan 31, 2010, 03.37 AMby liejang
I agree with opinions that most of these are not really wearable. However, this is the final for college. It suppose to show your talent- how much creative you are and different with other designers. Actually, I am pretty impressive of this collection. These are not too artistic and not too ordinary; they are like between Haute Couture and PRET-A-PORTER. Also, Each designer has their own design color and good skill. I can see why a lot of people in fashion industry go to their final show and hire designers.
Jan 29, 2010, 04.06 PMby jetsoui
I agree most of the looks are not ready to wear for this day and age (and perhaps a bit onwards) but then I think about what the students were ultimately creating their collection for. Like mentioned, the show attracts numerous international editors from around the globe, that’s a big deal I guess. I bet the students were out to set themselves apart by pushing/provoking the expected “ready to wear” boundaries. If I were in their shoes, I’d most likely take that risk too.
Apart from the question of wearibility, I thought quite a few were pretty interesting. When I look at what ppl have made, I wonder about the construction/ideas involved to create. Like the 2 in 1 outfit (no. 3 on the slideshow). If they were separate outfits, I reckon they would be ready to wear but the student chose to take it a step up and, in the process show their skill in construction. Which impressed me anyhow :-)
Jan 29, 2010, 03.49 PMby reba
I agree that most of these designs are not wearable for the average person. There are a few that are interesting, like the grey evening sheath, the camel ensemble at the end of the slides and the first one with the grey shrug. But most of the other designs seem a little ‘disjointed’ and weird – somewhat of a trend in high fashion.
Jan 29, 2010, 01.35 PMby apiary
Oh these are from last year. I can’t wait until march when the new grads show. I went to school with one of them and I can’t wait to see what he does.
On the above collections, I love the quilted shrugs and nude sheaths. they’re really beautiful.
1 Reply
Feb 1, 2010, 07.16 PMby mlssfshn
I though I had seen some of these before Derek Lawlor created look 2 above and was the winner of the Harrods scholarship if I remember correct. Student work is so inspiring and creative. They can create with true artistic expression with out the worry of will it sell, can I survive another season.
Jan 29, 2010, 12.47 PMby kkhb
Ditto that most of them are strange and unwearable. But the orange skirt is nice – great colour and not entirely different from the Linda skirt I saw here on Burda not long ago. I also kind of liked the grey-on-grey hula-hoop jobby in #8. I also agree with kaitui_kiwi – many of the models look like they are slumping. How long has the churlish “i-dare-you-to-make-me-give-a-damn” look been on the catwalk?
Jan 29, 2010, 06.20 AMby kaitui-kiwi
That orange one looks like just a big sweatshirt that is worn out and way too large for the model, the whole look is just frumpy. The second one is quite interesting, not practical as wzrdreams says, but as a designer it appeals to me, the structure looks quite clever and I can imagine it moves interestingly. The rest just don’t stand out at all, I really wish the models would stand up straight, they look awful all stooped over and grumpy looking, smile girls!
Jan 28, 2010, 10.56 PMby erdronen
I agree with you on all of the above, wzrdreams! I do kind of like the almost futuristic knit dress in shades of gray. The pieced looks are very odd to me. Definitely not wearable (most of the looks are not), and really strange combinations of colors, textures, etc. I totally don’t get it, and I don’t see this happening at all. If they were split into separate looks they could be really beautiful though :) Also, the billowy gray dress is kind of cool looking, and maybe this is a look that could stick.
Jan 28, 2010, 03.45 PMby wzrdreams
From left to right: Orange on orange on orange: wearable, but why would you? Grey yarn sculpture: cool, but as preformance art. Not wearable. White dress & beige dress (and some of the others in the slide show as well: remind me of the Cosby show were Denise makes Theo the “designer” shirt. Flesh and yellow minidress: kinda cute, but the proportions are odd. She looks like she’s wearing a flesh tone tire around her hips.
The influence of Central St. Martins is undeniable, but this show has me puzzled more than anything else. I genuinely laughed out loud at the white billowy dress that looks like the boobs were dip dyed in black latex. I don’t get it. Perhaps you could tell us why these are your favorite looks?
2 Replies
Feb 4, 2010, 06.04 PMby burdastyle
What I love about this show is its non-conformist nature, as many of the pieces are borderline absurd and yes, “unconventional”. When I was in college I made outrageous collections as well- I was young, experimental & my mind was wide open and free of limitations. I also WORE pieces like the ones pictured above and would still actually wear any one of those today. Perhaps this sort of fashion is an acquired taste, perhaps you think fashion must be more wearable, conventional and utilitarian- but what I personally love is how these aesthetics lend themselves so well to interpretation, discussion, and debate.
Feb 4, 2010, 08.14 PMby wzrdreams
@ Alison: Thank you for the explanation! :) part of the fun of art/design school is that you have free reign to be as creative as you want and can dream.
Of course, in my original comments on the designs I was offering my answers to your question about wearability, inspiration and desirability. In truth, I was a little reluctant to post my honest reactions, but now I am glad since we got to hear more from you about why you liked them.