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Unequal hem, warped side seam, folds? Here we show you how pattern adjustments are made on skirt and dress patterns. Read on to see how to do it, but note we do not give precise quantities, as they vary from person to person. With this adjustment, skirts, dresses and coats of all kinds can be adapted to your own bottom-size!

Measure


In order to determine how much extra length is needed, the waist is marked with a solid band and measured the length at the side and in the back center from the band to the ground. From the side length 1 cm is deducted. The remaining difference in length is compensated at the intersection.

Step 1


First we show the fit for the round bottom on a skirt. In the section of the back skirt is a horizontal line is drawn approximately 16 cm below the waist. Exactly between side seam and darts a vertical line of change is drawn.

Step 2


The cut piece is then cut twice. Once along the horizontal line from the back center to the side seam, and once along the vertical line from the top to close to the horizontal incision. The required length is added evenly from the rear center to the vertical incision. From the vertical incision to the side seam, this addition is wedge-shaped. The edges of the vertical incision turn slightly apart. This results in the second dart required for a round bottom.

Step 3


If necessary, the darts can be shortened (red lines). If the dart depth still needs to be reduced, the excess of side seam width is compensated again.

Step 4


For dresses and coats the pattern also needs two adjustment lines. The first runs horizontally about 16 cm below the waist. The second is perpendicular and parallel to the rear center. The distance between the vertical line and the back center is determined as follows: 1/8 hip width + 3 cm.

Step 5


The first step is to cut in on the horizontal change line from the rear center to close to the side seam. Then on the vertical line from the bottom to close to the horizontal incision. From the back center to the vertical incision, the required length is inserted evenly. From the vertical incision to the side seam, the addition is wedge-shaped. The edges of the vertical incision turn apart at the hem edge.

Step 6


Now the distance at the hem between the edges of the vertical incision is measured. The width at the side seam is reduced accordingly (red line).

2 Comments

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    Dec 30, 2017, 10.07 AMby nrobson

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