Today I am taking note of the alluring refinement of menswear. I have always admired a nicely dressed man. While living in Florence, Italy, I found myself at times completely awestruck of how magnificently the men were dressed- not to mention the women. In Italy, it was common for most people to own just a few high-quality designer pieces. These designer pieces would be worn and re-worn time and time again, such was protocol, and very well taken care of. How different this is from American fashion today, where many of the pieces the general public purchases are disposable? Transient. Fleeting. Cheaply made.
What I love about menswear is the simplicity. Styles and silhouettes remain very much the same over the decades, yet the newness lies in the precision of detail. A boldly printed bow tie with a fried egg pattern looks like classic paisleys from afar, but up close offers a freshness & sense of humor to fashion. Tailored coats made to be worn for years continue to be created, only changing slightly in fabric and texture. Paul Smith is a well known example of someone taking these classical elements and simply changing the details (colorful striped linings, iridescent button holes, polka dotted ties).
Do you pull inspiration from menswear? Do you ever wear mens clothing, steal cozy pieces from your boyfriend or husband?
Photos from The Sartorialist
May 20, 2011, 01.01 PMby zhului
Affordability, comfort, style, and quality. 70-680 test There is nothing wrong with placing value on any of these above the others. However, as people who sew I think we are in a unique position to really notice and appreciate the fine c70-640 testraftsmanship that goes into a bespoke jacket, which will always be better quality than jacket off the rack at H&M. I wear my low end clothes to pieces, but the better quality items in my closet will last even longer… so I think either way I get my money’s worth. I don’t borrow my guys clothes often, but I do love the menswear look. Back in high school I often bought menswear at the thrift stores and tailored them to fit me better.642-262 test I bought trousers and wing tips and cardigans and whatever else I found that had good texture and fiber content. Right now I love mens hats and vests.
Feb 19, 2010, 06.15 PMby gedwoods
Although fashion for women changes more quickly than for men, it seems to me there are some fashion staples that are pretty consistent over the years, even in women’s fashions. Maybe these are more high quality? although not always. I am fascinated by the fact that in the 16th and 17th centuries, men’s fashions were as volatile and elaborate as women’s are today (albeit more among the well-to-do).
While I think the points of view that take issue with the term “disposable” have a point, we must also recognize that our society has been run for decades on the “planned obsolescence” approach and that we have lost much in the way of “sustainable” expertise (such as bespoke tailoring). That some so-called “disposable” clothes may serve a “sustainable” role is all to the better. Hopefully our culture as a whole is swinging towards a more sustainable framework in everything it does – but this means valuing both recycycling our “disposables” AND revaluing higher quality workmanship, such as is found to some extent in men’s wear.
Feb 9, 2010, 12.00 PMby ichigogirl
I always felt a bit jealous of my brother who dresses very well in classical menswear of good quality. His clothes last SO long, both quality wise and fashion wise. I guess the fact that there is so much more focus on womenswear in fashion really has two sides; we get all the attention and almost unlimited choice, but fashion for women changes much more than it does for men, making it more difficult for us to build a long lasting basic wardrobe. I’m totallty fed up with the disposability of things in general in our society and try as hard as I can to buy things I will love for years to come, in clothes, books, gadgets, everything… but it isn’t always easy, I too fall in the trap of lighthearted buying of unneccessary cheap clothes. Though sometimes I buy cheap clothes that last me for years and end up among my lasting favourites. I agree with janul that it’s not all about the pricetag, but there is a difference, I get some clothes from swedish fashion-brands that were started by menswear tailors, and the fit, details and quality of work is just outstanding compared to some of the things you get really cheap at H&M. But then there’s one wool jacket from H&M that I’ve worn extensively for years, and it’s still in great shape… Lucky us who sew that we can “feel the fabric” and evaluate the details!
Feb 8, 2010, 08.39 PMby alisondahl
I buy inexpensive pieces too (cardigans, soft long sleeved t-shirts, socks, tights)- but I have noticed amongst my friends that every season they find the need to get rid of certain pieces because they are completely falling apart or were so trend-relevant at the time of purchase- but not any more. This post is about the quality of menswear, the subtle details and the care which goes into the making…a quality that isn’t found everywhere these days.
Feb 7, 2010, 10.23 PMby couturecutie
I soooo agree with Janul & Nehmah & Sarsaparilla! It soooo isn’t ‘disposable’, it is recycled. The fashion in’t being thrown away, it is being reused and re-gendered (i don’t have a word for an article being past to another gender)!
Feb 7, 2010, 01.24 AMby gpapadakis
How absolutely refreshing to see a fashion company using older models!
1 Reply
Feb 9, 2010, 10.13 AMby buddingnaturalist
The people aren’t models they’re regulars off the street-there’s this blog called the sartorialist that documents well dressed/cool clothing seen on the street-its very nice, lots of inspiration there
;)
Feb 6, 2010, 04.56 PMby wzrdreams
Affordability, comfort, style, and quality. There is nothing wrong with placing value on any of these above the others. However, as people who sew I think we are in a unique position to really notice and appreciate the fine craftsmanship that goes into a bespoke jacket, which will always be better quality than jacket off the rack at H&M. I wear my low end clothes to pieces, but the better quality items in my closet will last even longer… so I think either way I get my money’s worth.
I don’t borrow my guys clothes often, but I do love the menswear look. Back in high school I often bought menswear at the thrift stores and tailored them to fit me better. I bought trousers and wing tips and cardigans and whatever else I found that had good texture and fiber content. Right now I love mens hats and vests.
Feb 6, 2010, 12.34 PMby ali-krysta
I often think that mens clothing is made to a much higher quality than womens, right down to the choice of fabrics, I think that the reason for this is because women fashions move more quickly so they are not made to last for more than a season. This makes the womens wardrobe staples suffer too, as they get the same treatment, even in more expensive brands. Where you might have to spend £50+ for good quality womens knitwear (and still have to dig through a lot of rubbish of a similar price), the same quality is avaliable in menswear sections for just £20 or less. This is a very topsy-turvy world. :(
Feb 6, 2010, 07.47 AMby sarsaparilla
I’d have to agree with Janul & Nehmah here. Sure, some inexpensive clothing is poorly made and tacky, but not all. I buy lots of basic tees from places like Target because most items are 100% cotton (I can’t wear polyester because of allergies, and sadly lots of designer pieces seem to be a poly-blend).
I totally agree that it’s nice to have a few classic items for the wardrobe though – I think I’ll keep my bomber jacket forever! I’m also in love with pea coats and men’s shirts (after a few alterations they make great tunics worn with tights and boots :D )
Feb 6, 2010, 05.10 AMby nehmah
Congratulations Janul; You have the attitude that more of us need. Inexpensive is not synonymous with cheap. I make almost all of my clothing. Often the housedresses are made from second-hand cotton knit sheets. They are comfortable, do not irritate my skin or budget, and the extra material becomes dust cloths. It does me good to read this quote. Cordially, Nehmah
Feb 5, 2010, 08.33 PMby janul
Hmmm… I´m kind of tired of the word “disposable” regarding fashion lately. It´s not disposable by itself, we make it disposable! I believe that you can wear cheap piece of clothing with grace and for a long time. The value isn´t in the price tag or designer… I love my cheapy cheap “disposable” clothing, I don´t want to throw it away and I want to wear it for a long time. That´s why I bought it. Think when you purchase something, care about it and wear it. Considering the menswear, I´ve found great shoes in a thrift store, look like new. They might be men´s shoes, but I´m not sure. Similar to those pictured above, but black. I love them, but I´m afraid people will think I´m crazy, but I will wear them anyway :).