Hi BurdaStylers! I hope you all had a fabulous holidays, I had a little break myself and now I’m excited and eager to get back to work and sewing. This week I cut out my pants patterns that I debuted a couple weeks ago, and when I finished cutting them out I realized New Year’s Eve was in two days so I printed, cut out, sewed, and finished a dress to wear to the occasion! Read more to see it all…
The last post was about choosing the winning pants pattern that you all voted one (which was our High Waist Trousers) and I also decided to make a matching top from our Off the Shoulder Blouse pattern to complete a nice wintery party outfit!
I needed piping to complete my materials for the pants, and I found this amazing leather braided piping that will work wonderfully. I just love army green and black leather together.
When I went to the fabric store to get my piping I browsed through the other fabrics (as I always do) and came across this plaid and matching silk. I purchased yardage to make my blouse in! I like it a lot better than the plaid I already had planned to make it in… maybe one day I’l make something with it.
All the pattern pieces for the pants were ready to go so I simply folded my fabric right sides together and laid out all the pattern pieces parallel to the selvedge edge. There was a crosswise stretch going across the fabric so I made sure it would stretch across the pants pattern as well. I don’t need stretch going lengthwise along my body, but definitely crosswise haha!
For all of the waistband pieces there needed to be four pieces, so I cut each piece twice. The front waistband pieces were cut on the fold.
I also didn’t forget about my self drafted pocket piece! See how I drafted it here.
My pants were finished being cut out and I didn’t want interfacing for my waistband pieces since there were two layers already and I didn’t want to loose the stretch in the fabric.
Now at this point in the day I thought I would continue to sew these pants, but then realized that New Year’s Eve was this weekend! Last year I made my NYE dress so I was determined to do so again. So instead of starting to sew my pants I browsed the pattern store and filtered for a petite dress pattern so I wouldn’t have to do any alterations. I printed my pattern right then and got at it! That is truly the beauty of digital sewing patterns, when you have the urge to create something new you just print it off and get to sewing (If you have enough fabric in your stash).
I decided on our Bell Sleeve Mini Dress because I wanted something easy to make and comfortable to wear. Meaning no zippers, pockets, buttons etc. This pattern is a loose silhouette dress with adorable bell sleeves and simply slips over the head! When I went shopping for my piping, and plaid top fabric I also picked up this blue silk satin that I loved the color of. I didn’t have plans with it at the time, but I’m sure glad now I bought it!
To determine my pattern size I actually measured the pattern. The side seam is straight, so it is a fixed width. I measured and added up the finished width for size 20 at first, and then compared it to my widest hip measurement and decided to cut the largest size 21. Because there is nothing worse than a loose silhouette dress being snug around the hips.
I added 1/2" seam allowance all around the pieces and then traced out the facing pieces which are indicated on the pattern. I always do this after I add the initial seam allowance so I don’t have to add it again to the facing pieces.
This pattern requires you to draft the sleeve and bias pieces, so I looked to the instructions and drafted in tracing paper.
I laid out my fabric and cut each piece. The front and back dress pieces were cut on the fold. I also made sure to cut them in the same direction because the fabric had a slight sheen in one direction making the fabric have nap.
I marked my darts on the front piece.
Then cut out my little bias piece “c” .
The front and back facing pieces are also cut out on the fold.
And also need to be interfaced. I used a medium weight woven fusible interfacing.
My first step in sewing this dress was to stitch the darts. I sewed from the edge to the tip and knotted off my hand, then pressed downwards towards the hem.
Starting on the back, I laid my interfaced back facing piece right sides together to the back dress piece and pinned just along the neckline.
I also pinned and sewed my sleeve darts together.
Once my facing was sewn to both my front and back neckline I graded and clipped into the seam allowance.
I pressed the facings and understitched towards the facing side of the seam.
Once the facings were pressed nicely towards the inside of the piece and laying flat, I pinned and basted the facing to the dress along the sleeve and side seam edges. Before I did this seam I serged/finished the bottom edge of the facing pieces. I did this for both the front and the back.
I pinned the sleeves to the corresponding dress edge and sewed in place. This was four seams in total, the sleeve is a raglan sleeve style. The dress pieces should finished 1/2" down from the top edge of the sleeve pieces.
The little piece of bias, piece “c” is for sewing and finished the top portion of the sleeve around the neck. I pinned the bias to the edge and sewed.
I flipped and pressed the strip to the wrong side. I actually used double sided hem tape to fuse the strip in place and it worked out great! You could also hand sew in place.
Now that the sleeve were sewn in place I could sew the side seam. I serged all the raw edges and sewed together the side seams and sleeve seams in one. I then pressed the seam allowances open.
I sewed the sleeve bands together along the short side and then folded so the wrong sides were together creating a fold along the sleeve band hemline.
The sleeve bands are meant to be slightly gathered in.
I gathered and sewed the sleeve bands in place and then finished the seam allowances all together to prevent further fraying.
For the hem of the dress I simply serged the edge, pressed up 1" and topstitched in place with a longer stitch length.
Here is my finished dress! This literally came together from thought to finished in a couple hours. I tried it on and I love the fit! Stay tuned for New Years’s Eve when I debut me photographed in the dress. I need to find some killer shoes and a statement necklace to wear with it. Have you made our Bell Sleeve Mini Dress pattern? link to your project below, and if you haven’t then you have time to before New Years’s Eve since it only takes a few hours to sew. Make sure to upload your project to our projects page and link to the pattern to be featured in my debut of the dress.
Now that I sewed up a dress quickly in an afternoon I can get back to working on my real Mash Up, my pants! Sew along with me and download our High Waist Trousers pattern pattern.
Happy Sewing New Year!