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I’m starting my Mash Up a little late this month since I was travelling around Italy the first part of November, and although I’m a tad bit sad to be home from all the amazing food and fashions, I’m super excited to be reunited with my sewing machine! On my last reveal post I asked which of two patterns I should make, and with your consideration and the time I have left in the month I went with the blouse…

Pattern


It was between our Faux Wrap blouse and the Belted Blazer for what to make for my November Mash Up. Even though the blouse is a tall sized pattern, I wanted to make it anyway as I love the front shape. So the blouse it was!

Materials


Also because I already had some burn out velvet fabric, it was a perfect fit. I didn’t want to sew it all up in velvet though so I went with a sweater knit to make the top a little more casual and comfy-cozy. Since both of my fabrics were a knit, I needed some stretch sewing machine needles and also picked out some matching thread. For the sizing, since it was a tall I went down a size and cut a size 76 especially since I was sewing it in knit. I didn’t reduce the length at all since I wanted the top to be longer to cover my bum so I could wear it with my leather leggings for the holidays. Wearing leggings to holiday meals is my ultimate holiday comfort tip haha.

Fabric Close Up


Here is a closer look at my fabrics. I really do love all the colors in the velvet fabric and I wanted it front and center on my top so I decided to cut the front and back in the velvet and then the sleeves and yoke in the sweater knit. Since my sleeves were going to be sewn in sweater knit and I already made a blouse with tapered in wrists I decided I was going to leave my sleeves wide and flowing and not sew on the cuff.

Cutting out 1


For the velvet I made sure that the slight stretch in the knit was going across the pattern and the velvet “brushed down” on the piece. I cut out the 2 front pieces, as well as the back, on a fold in the velvet. For the front lining piece I cut in a simple stretch black jersey to keep the bulk down. If I cut all the front pieces in velvet it would be way too heavy and bulky especially in the front hem seam.

Cutting out 2


In addition to my sleeves being cut in the sweater knit, I also cut the yoke piece to tie in the grey color on the body of the blouse.

Step 1


The first step was to stitch the dart in the front lining piece. I’m sewing this blouse as a sort of “knit hack”, making this intricate top an easy sew with all the benefits of the draped front! Since my front lining was a lightweight jersey, I didn’t really need to mark and sew the entire dart so I clipped into the dart legs at the side seam and stitched as pleats!

Step 2


To do this I first pinned the “dart legs” right sides together as I were sewing it as a dart and pinned in place.

Step 3


Then I flipped down on the right side and pinned the intake to the side seam.

Step 4


With the pins still in place, I carefully stitched the intake to the side seam with in the seam allowances.

Step 5


I put the lining piece away and then grabbed my outer front velvet pieces. The first step was to finish the outer facing edge…

Step 6


…so I ran it under my serger.

Step 7


Once the edges were finished I folded back my facings, right sides together and pinned along the neckline from the folded edge to seam corner #4.

Step 8


Then I stitched in place.

Step 9


I then trimmed my seam allowances to about 1/4" to reduce bulk, then flipped back out to the right side and used a point turner to sharpen the corner.

Step 10


To keep the facing in place, I pinned along the edge…

Step 11


…then basted the facings to the hem inside my seam allowance.

Step 12


Next was to sew the pleats in the bottom of the front pieces, my favorite part of this blouse. The pleats are actually sewn a bit as a dart, so I pinned my pleat notched together and sewed to the top of the marking.

Step 14


Then I laid the pleats according to the directional arrows on my front pattern piece, and basted in place along the bottom.

Step 15


After the pleats were sewn and secured, I overlapped the front pieces matching up the center fronts and pinning them together along the bottom. This creates the wrap style… and to keep the bottom edges together I machine basted them all along the bottom. This makes the front two pieces now one!

Step 16


I then grabbed back my front lining piece and laid my front right side down on the wrong side of the lining and pinned the hem edges together.

Step 17


View of the lining underneath.

Step 18


I stitched them both together along my seamline at the hem and shifted the seam allowances towards the lining.

Step 19


To keep the seam allowances flat and going towards the lining side, I understitched.

That completes part 1 of my November Mash Up! Sew along with me and download the pattern here.

Happy Sewing!

Meg

1 Comment

  • Wp_20171105_01_35_20_pro_large

    Nov 22, 2017, 09.54 AMby nrobson

    i always look forward to your cool mashups! x

    • This is a question
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