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Since October is Pants Month it was only suiting to “Mash Up” a pants sewing pattern for my October project. Ironically the 10/2017 issue of BurdaStyle only had one pants sewing pattern in it, so I was faced with making it! Glad they were a super cute style. Read on to see my first steps in sewing these pants…

Pattern


The pattern is yet to be released on BurdaStyle.com, but it is the #113 pattern in the 10/2017 issue. I haven’t made a pair of pants in a while, so I was excited to get started on these. My last Mash Up was a blouse, so I hope to have these pants pair well with it to make myself a nice new fall outfit.

Materials


So I knew I had to make these pants, and next I had to determine what fabric I wanted to sew them in. I had a ton of leftover denim and embroidery thread from developing and filming my Jean Jacket Sew-Along so I thought it could be cool to make a matching pair of pants. I’m excited about having a pair of denim pants that are not traditional “jeans” with a fly front zipper, etc. But I knew the invisible zipper that the pattern called for wouldn’t be sturdy enough so I opted for a side seam metal zipper!

I’m going to add embroidery up one of the pant legs along the side seam, and have the hem of the pants as the frayed selvedge edge.

Cutting out


I wanted to cut out the pants so the frayed edge could be right at the pant hem, but I couldn’t since this denim fabric had one-way stretch in the opposite direction and I needed that stretch to go across my body. So instead I’m going to cut separate little pieces as the cuffs that will allow be to have a frayed hem. These are the waistband pieces and since I had to cut two of each on the fold I had to trace out one of each with chalk.

Interfacing


Then they had to be interfaced! I always use my actual fabric pieces to layout wrong side down on my interfacing to cut out.

Markings


Next were the pattern markings, there were only a couple. Just the darts in the back pieces and front pocket backings.

Step 1


The first step in sewing was to sew the pocket pouch pieces along seam #1 of the front pant pieces.

Step 2


I then serged around the pocket pouch and pressed the seam so it laid on the wrong side of the front.

Step 3


Before attaching the pouch to the pocket backing I had to sew the little darts in the front pocket backing pieces.

Step 4


Then I serged the bottom edge of the pocket backing.

Step 5


Next was the fold the dart in the front piece. The key to this is to fold right along the point, and for the pocket seam to hit the notch along the waistline. I pinned in place.

Step 6


To make sewing easier, I machine basted this pleat in place.

Step 7


I grabbed my pocket backing and shifted the front piece out of the way so I could match up the sides and bottom curves. I pinned and sewed in place from the side seam to the waistline as far as I could go without catching the pleat.

Step 8


My sewn pocket from the right side of the front! I love the pleat in the denim so far.

Step 9


Next was to sew the front crotch seam, and before I pinned that, I serged around all the edges for my front pieces.

Step 10


I stitched together and pressed my seam allowance open. It is ready to be topstitched, but I’m saving all my topstitching for later when I have more seams to.

STep 11


Now onto the back! First was to sew the back darts, and then I pressed them towards the center back.

Step 12


The back is a lot simpler than the front, so the next step was just to sew the back crotch together.

Step 13


In preparation for the embroidery I pinned and sew up the side seam without zipper so I could embroider while flat.

Next week I add my embroidery and topstitching! Really excited about these pants, I have been wanting to make another pair of denim pants for a while now.

Happy Sewing!

Meg

3 Comments

  • Photo_103_large

    Oct 8, 2017, 09.56 AMby RomRom

    Can’t wait to see the finished pants!!

  • Wp_20171105_01_35_20_pro_large

    Oct 6, 2017, 10.59 AMby nrobson

    love that denim shade

    1 Reply
    • Meg_healy_burdastyle_90_90_large

      Oct 6, 2017, 08.17 PMby MegH

      Thanks!

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