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Convert your favorite pencil skirt pattern into a faux wrap skirt featuring on-trend metallic bee embroidery and sparkling beadwork inspired by vintage Schiaparelli.

Wrap skirts are flattering, fun and on trend. They create a great vertical line and provide a perfect place to show off a favorite embroidery design. Unfortunately, a true wrap skirt can be a bit tricky when in motion, especially on a breezy day! Luckily, it’s very simple to convert your favorite pencil skirt pattern into a faux wrap skirt that has all the style and none of the inconvenience.


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MATERIALS
• Pencil skirt pattern (BurdaStyle #118 08/2015)
• Woven fabric (amount according to pattern envelope plus 3/4 yard)
• Interfacing, zipper and other notions (according to pattern envelope)
• Lightweight cut-away mesh stabilizer
• Gold and black metallic embroidery thread
• Pattern or tracing paper
• Ruler
• Removable fabric marker
Bee embroidery design (approximately 1”x1 1/2”), and also found in our Embroidery Kit here!


Skirt Pattern


For optional beadwork: Materials listed are enough to make three starburst patterns and nine miniature bees.
• Pre-waxed synthetic beading thread
• Beading needle
• 24 long gold bugle beads or 48 regular bugle beads
• 24 silver bugle beads
• 75 gold seed beads
• 48 silver seed beads
• 48 mixed silver and gold seed beads


FW_161020_0386


PREPARE

Note: “Left” and “right” in the instructions refers to the final location when garment is worn.

• Mark the pattern piece cutting lines for your size with a colored pen.
• Trace the skirt front and back patterns onto tracing or pattern paper. If using a BurdaStyle pattern, add 5/8” seam allowances and a 2” hem to the traced pattern. Check the pattern fit and adjust if needed. Mark any pattern
adjustments made on the original pattern pieces.
• Using the skirt front pattern, trace the right front half onto the tracing paper, marking the foldline. Set the tracing paper aside.
• Using the pattern dart lines and a ruler, trace a line from the waistline down to the hem along the centermost dart line for your size. The line should curve along the dart line and then fall parallel to the grainline down to the
hem.
• Turn the tracing paper over and align the traced center foldline with the center line on the pattern. Trace the second half of the pattern onto the paper, using the new line you have drawn as the left edge. Designate the new
pattern piece the faux wrap (see below image).
• Cut two skirt backs, one skirt front on the fold and one faux wrap. Set aside fabric for a waistband.


Illustration 2


EMBROIDER

• Mark the stitching line and hemline on the right side of the faux wrap lower right corner using a removable fabric marker.
• Determine the desired placement for the three bee motifs, keeping them within an approximately 4”x4” square with the hemline and stitching line you marked slightly outside the border. Mark the desired placement with
cross marks using a removable fabric marker. Alternatively, design the placement on the machine or embroidery software by copying the design and placing each bee as desired within the field.
• Hoop the area to be embroidered with two layers of lightweight cut-away stabilizer. Place the hoop onto the machine.
• Align the needle with one set of cross marks (or with the center of the embroidery field if embroidering three bees at once) and embroider the design, using metallic black for color 1 and metallic gold for color 2.
• Repeat to embroider the other two bees.
• Remove the hoop from the machine and the fabric from the hoop. Cut away the stabilizer close to the stitching lines.
• Hand embroider with beads if desired.

Add extra sparkle to your skirt! Following the instructions below, stitch starbursts and tiny beaded “bees.”


Diagrams


STARBURST
• Thread the beading needle. Knot the end of the thread and insert the beading needle into the fabric from the wrong side at the desired starting point.
• Add four mixed-color seed beads to the needle and slide them down the thread.
• Reinsert the needle about two seed-bead widths from the original entry point. The beads will form an arc.
• Repeat three times as shown in the diagram to create the starburst center.
• Starting with the needle inserted from the back at the top of the starburst center, create gold rays by placing one gold seed bead, one gold long bugle bead (or two standard-length gold bugle beads), and one seed bead on
the needle and sliding onto the thread.
• Reinsert the needle so that the beads lie flat and straight, pointing directly away from the center.
• Repeat to create eight rays evenly spaced around the starburst center according to the diagram.
• Starting with the needle inserted from back of fabric, stitch a silver ray in the same manner in between adjacent gold rays, according to the diagram.
• Once the design is completed, knot the thread securely on the back of the fabric.


BEE
• Thread the beading needle. Knot the end of the thread and insert the beading needle into the fabric from the wrong side at the desired starting point.
• Add three seed beads to the needle and slide them down thread into position.
• Insert the needle back into the fabric close to the original stitch entry and gently pull taut. The middle bead will pop upward.
• Pull the needle through the fabric from the wrong side close to the previous stitches. Pass the needle through the middle bead.
• Finish the stitch near the entry point, and knot off on the back of the fabric. Tip: Catch a few threads of fabric weave when knotting off to create a more secure knot.


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CONSTRUCT

• Stitch the front and back darts and press toward the center.
• Move the zipper insertion from the skirt side seam to the center-back seam. Insert the zipper according to the pattern instructions; stitch the center-back seam and the skirt-back slit as instructed. Finish the seam
allowances.
• Stitch the skirt front to the left side seam of the skirt back and the faux wrap to the right side seam of the skirt back. Finish the seam allowances.
• Overlap the skirt front with the faux wrap to check the fit. The side edge of the faux wrap should extend 5/8” past the left dart line. Adjust the fit if necessary.
• To finish the raw side edges of the skirt front and the faux wrap, fold 1/4” toward the wrong side; press. Turn the folded edge toward the wrong side again. Press, then edgestitch to create a 1/4”-wide hemmed edge.
• Turn up the hem, press and hem the skirt according to the pattern instructions.
• Pin the open side edge of the skirt front to the side-seam seam allowance of the faux wrap, overlapping and butting the finished edge of the skirt front against the seam (see image below). Topstitch the skirt front
onto the seam
allowance, ending 3” below the widest part of the hip. Use a bar tack or similar reinforcement stitch to secure the bottom of the topstitched seam.
• Align the top edge of the faux wrap with the skirt front so that it lies smoothly with the edge aligned with the left side dart. Baste the faux wrap edge to secure in place.
• Measure the waistline of the skirt. Cut a waistband according to the pattern instructions that is at least 2” longer than the measurement. Interface the waistband and apply according to the pattern instructions. Finish with a
hook and eye or similar notion.


Illustration 1


This article was originally published in the March/April 2017 issue of Creative Machine Embroidery by Katrina Walker


I love this skirt and all the insect embroidery designs! I myself just used the Bee design in an embroidered denim jacket project, so stay tuned for that.

1 Comment

  • C__data_users_defapps_appdata_internetexplorer_temp_saved_images_untitled_large

    Jun 16, 2017, 06.57 PMby nadia r

    They look so cool these little pieces of art zx

    • This is a question
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