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We’re 3 weeks into our first sew-along. And it’s not too late to catch up. Join us!

Week 3 of our Plaid Jacket sew-along, and things have been pretty good so far, right? We’ve printed and assembled our PDF pattern and just last week cut out our fabric. So what’s next?

We sew!

WEEK THREE ASSIGNMENT: Complete Step 3 (shoulder seams) and Step 4 (in-seam pockets) of the pattern instructions.

To note: This pattern doesn’t have lining (except for a small piece used for the pocket interior). So make sure you’re finishing your seam allowances while you sew. If you’re working with a fabric that doesn’t fray at the raw edge, you still might want to finish the seam allowances just to make the garment look clean and professional from the inside.

This past week, I came across a few hiccups. I noticed there was no grainline marking on pattern piece #1. (So I drew my own in after assessing where the lengthwise grain should run according to the garment illustration.) And I also noticed there were sometimes two different grainline marking options: for view A and for view B. However, I couldn’t see where the garment specified being either view A or B. In the end, although I didn’t follow consistent grainline markings, I believe I chose the proper grainline based on the garment illustration. For pattern piece #1, I followed the A grain marking, for pattern piece #4, I followed the B grain marking (that one I was really stumped on, and I still think I should have chosen “A”), and for pattern piece #6, I ignored both A and B and cut the piece on the fold where it said “fold”. I hope that was right! We shall see… :) Anyone else have challenges? Anyone have tips to share?

26 Comments

  • Missing

    Oct 20, 2013, 08.31 PMby cstahl

    Thank you so much FaithMorgan. You have been a tremendous help. Part of the problem is I just don’t have the confidence that I am interpreting correctly.

    I was hoping this sew along would also have hints, tips, guidance along the way and that it would serve me in interpreting other burda patterns so I am a little disappointed. I see now that Denise is the editor for the new US magazine so I can imagine she is tremendously busy with that. Oh well. I am loving the jacket as it it coming along anyway.

    5 Replies
    • 293979_10151327497702431_820130724_n_large

      Oct 21, 2013, 05.01 PMby FaithMorgan

      Hi Carrie. Hope your project is going well. Yeah, I guess Denise must be really busy with the roll out of the new US Burda. I didn’t see the next step posted yet either. I hope you are able to keep moving forward.
      I think the sew along is such a great idea. We should definitely use it to share ideas and help each other out. I have a really difficult time translating flat to 3D in my head. I normally have to read the instructions several times, and I used to sew many years ago. Sometimes just one little clue can make it all clear up for me. And, that is such great feeling!
      Did you get your pockets done? I’ll work on some pictures today. I was going to post my project soon anyway. I can put some extra detail on the pockets if that would help.
      Faith

    • 293979_10151327497702431_820130724_n_large

      Oct 22, 2013, 07.24 AMby FaithMorgan

      Hi Carrie.

      I took some pictures of the steps for inserting the pockets on this jacket. I did it using scrap fabric and muslin since my jacket is done. Tomorrow I will figure out how to post them. Might be able to just add them into my project….I think….

      Faith

    • 293979_10151327497702431_820130724_n_large

      Oct 22, 2013, 10.25 PMby FaithMorgan

      I put some pictures on how I put that in-seam pocket in up in my jacket project.

    • Denise_wild_lovesewing_large

      Oct 24, 2013, 08.12 PMby Denise medenisewild

      Hi @cstahl and @FaithMorgan, I’m thinking I’ll do the next sew-along a little differently. Instead of us all doing the same steps together, I’ll do the steps first and will offer tips and more detailed steps about what I did. I hope that will help!

      And @cstahl, I hope all is going well. Did you get your pockets in place? Have a read through my pocket tip here and see if this helps: http://www.burdastyle.com/blog/sew-along-plaid-jacket-week-4

    • Missing

      Oct 24, 2013, 10.17 PMby cstahl

      I finished and am posting my project! This was really fun and I am looking forward to the next one.

  • Missing

    Oct 18, 2013, 11.14 PMby cstahl

    Thanks FaithMorgan! That totally helped. So now Step 4 and the pockets…..aargghhhh!! I have so many questions. And to start with I am wondering if I even have the correct number of pieces cut. It says to cut two of fabric and two of lining …but shouldn’t it be four (two for each side)? If anyone is able to maybe break these steps down further step by step that would be more than awesome. I am trying to look up resource books and you tube videos. I think I have a workable solution but it leaves exposed seams. And not to mention I guess I am just stubborn and want to understand what the pattern is saying to do.

    Totally grateful for help! Thanks, Carrie

    1 Reply
    • 293979_10151327497702431_820130724_n_large

      Oct 19, 2013, 01.20 AMby FaithMorgan

      Hi Carrie.
      I pretty much finished mine. I didn’t have any exposed seams, but that doesn’t mean much:) I am hoping the other sewists participating in the sew-along will jump in here if I am telling you something that isn’t right.
      But, it sounds like you have cut the pockets correctly. You should have 4 total, 2 pocket pieces of fashion fabric and 2 of lining.

      I can try and help you get started on the pocket construction. I think it is great that you really want to understand this. I am the same way! I am very visual. And, I am not really on the net much until this sew along and I have discovered that I am really long winded. I apologize in advance. I am working on that!

      So…..I did mine jacket a little different from the pattern. But, hopefully you have your fabric well marked and know where the pockets are placed. That is really important.

      First you pin your pocket pieces at side seam allowance (sa) markings with the right sides of pocket pieces and lining pieces to right sides of back and front pieces of jacket. The lining should be pinned to the front panels and fashion fabric pocket to back (sa together). It should look like pattern piece #1.

      Next you stitch the pocket & lining pieces in place at the side seam.

      Press sa open. pressing pockets away from jacket.

      Let me know if I should continue….

      Faith

  • Missing

    Oct 18, 2013, 12.00 AMby cstahl

    I am in need of help understanding Burda lingo (plus a newbie so I rely heavily on directions).

    On Step 3. .. “Press seam allowances of sleeve joining seams onto front and back.” Does that just mean press open seam?

    Next sentence…“Stitch fronts and back 5 mm from joining seams.” Does that mean like a top stitch across the sleeve just put in? Or does that mean starting from the sleeve join but going down unto unsewn part of coat more like a stay stitch?

    I won’t go on to step 4 yet. :)

    Thank you all for helping.

    2 Replies
    • 293979_10151327497702431_820130724_n_large

      Oct 18, 2013, 06.00 PMby FaithMorgan

      Hi cstahl.
      Here’s what I did on step #3: I took that to mean press the entire SA over to front and back panel of the jacket. Then you top stitch along the front and back of the jacket body, holding what you pressed in place.

      Hopefully others will post if they did something different.

    • Denise_wild_lovesewing_large

      Oct 24, 2013, 08.09 PMby Denise medenisewild

      @FaithMorgan: that’s what I took Step 3 to mean also. However, because my fabric is so thick, I pressed the seam allowances open and planned to topstitch on either side for a decorative finish. But I’m not sure I’ll topstitch anymore because I really like my jacket the way it looks without it :)

      @cstahl: I had no idea what that next sentence meant… so I just ignored it and moved on to the next step. lol. And my jacket hasn’t fallen apart yet!

  • Foto_grow_large

    Oct 17, 2013, 07.28 PMby miniaram

    I chose two different fabrics – I have a plaid fabric for the coat and a simple one for the sleeve band and collar…. Nevertheless I went for the B model because I found it easier to understand the placement of the pattern in the fabric!

    Since I didn’t buy a piece of fabric long enough that fitted the collar pattern, I had to cut the pattern in half. I added some sew allowance in the new junction and I had in mind the grain direction, so besides and extra sew line, I think the final piece will turn out ok (fingers crossed!!)!

    wishes of the best sewing :)

    1 Reply
    • Denise_wild_lovesewing_large

      Oct 24, 2013, 07.56 PMby Denise medenisewild

      Great idea to do the band in a simple fabric and the rest of the jacket in plaid. Sounds good! And good thinking about splitting the band and sewing it! :)

  • Img_2560_large

    Oct 17, 2013, 02.27 AMby LakeWylieMom

    FaithMorgan, What fabric did you choose? Do you have a link or a picture? - I haven’t cut it out yet…I was working on client’s extended tax returns, but that deadline is passed, now back to sewing.

    1 Reply
    • 293979_10151327497702431_820130724_n_large

      Oct 18, 2013, 05.45 PMby FaithMorgan

      Hi:) Yesterday was really busy me too. My oven went out. Right before the holidays, but at least I should have time to fix it. I normally cook and the kids come here. Really focused and getting that fixed. Part is on the way….back to the fun stuff.
      Glad you are able to get back to your sewing too! Sounds like you and I have lots in common. My career was all numbers. Loved it, really miss it.
      After making the muslin I decided to use some fabric from my stash. I originally had planned to use some plaid wool that I got from Britex. But, I was worried about the bulk on that front curve of the jacket. I tried a sample and just wasn’t super happy with it. I ended up going with something from my stash with a bit of stretch. It will be a very casual jacket now.
      I am going to try and take a picture and post my project. I am very new at all this, so I have no idea if I will be able to figure it out.
      How is your jacket coming? I can’t wait to see. Your fabric is so pretty. It is going to be gorgeous, I’m sure.

  • Missing

    Oct 16, 2013, 05.35 PMby Catherine Bell

    Hi! I am new to sewing and have only ever done one other pattern from scratch. I found these instructions really cryptic. Where is the picture of view A versus B. Also, it does say to cut some pieces 4x or 2×. I barely ad enough fabric after all – or maybe I’m laying he fabric out all wrong. Do we lay out the fabric in the same way we print the pattern? This is a really good learning experience (;

    2 Replies
    • 293979_10151327497702431_820130724_n_large

      Oct 16, 2013, 06.40 PMby FaithMorgan

      Hi bellcath.
      Here is the link for (A) the gaberdine jacket: http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/112010-gabardine-jacket. B refers to the plaid.
      I don’t think the instructions gave layout diagrams for cutting. For the layout you will want to use the arrows (indicating straight grain) on the pattern pieces as your guide. Some pieces, like piece #2 might not have an arrow, but have the straight of grain on the fold. The arrows (SG) should run lengthwise on your fabric, parallel to the selvage edge.
      What kind of fabric did you get? If you don’t have plaid, it is pretty easy to fold the fabric along the selvage and just cut 2 pieces at once. It is really important to make sure you keep those arrows straight along the grain. it will help your garment hang properly. I had plaid and did single layer to match the plaid.
      Hope this helps you! I am not the best at explaining things.

    • Denise_wild_lovesewing_large

      Oct 24, 2013, 07.55 PMby Denise medenisewild

      Great details, @FaithMorgan!

  • 293979_10151327497702431_820130724_n_large

    Oct 15, 2013, 09.55 PMby FaithMorgan

    I have mine all cut out and couldn’t resist sewing. I have a plaid, so I also followed B for the bands and cut on the bias. I think it made it look much more interesting. I also read ahead and I thought that the instructions have the potential to be confusing. The upcoming sections for adding the collar band (steps 5 & 8) and sleeve bands (steps 6 & 9) refer to the two different options (A&B).

    5 Replies
    • Foto_grow_large

      Oct 17, 2013, 07.21 PMby miniaram

      Thanks :D

      I have read the instructions 10 times trying to figure out how or why we would sew the collar band or sleeves twice…
      Can you tell which step corresponds to which option? It looks like steps 6&8 are for A and steps 5&9 are for B, but is always nice to have a second opinion..

    • 293979_10151327497702431_820130724_n_large

      Oct 18, 2013, 06.44 PMby FaithMorgan

      Hi miniaram. Really confusing, right? I wish they would have indicated which they were referring to. My guess is that steps 5 & 6 are for option A, and 7, 8 and 9 option B. It may be that the difference in how the collar/front band is attached is simply to minimize bulk. Loden cloth is thicker than gabardine. But, I am truly guessing here!

    • Img_2560_large

      Nov 15, 2013, 10.05 PMby LakeWylieMom

      Okay, so finally back to sewing, the front band was fine, but seriously some improvement could be done on the clarity of the instructions. The pockets weren’t written out well, and now the sleeve bands. I can’t begin to figure out the “snap fasteners”…I am assuming you have figured this out because you have been super quick at picking up these cryptic pattern instructions. On the list it doesn’t say anything about snaps that I saw, and the cross grain “short” fold line indicated on the sleeve band does not make sense either. Can you help clarify? I can sew it how I think it should be done, but I would like to try to understand what they mean. Step 9 makes sense, but Step 6 makes me think they are talking about a different pattern.
      Step 7 seems to contradict with step 5. I think I am fine on the front band, but the instructions are terrible.

    • 293979_10151327497702431_820130724_n_large

      Nov 15, 2013, 10.37 PMby FaithMorgan

      Hi. Yeah, the instructions were really difficult because they are combining two different patterns and they are never really clear which steps apply. Let me pull that and see if I can help. Are you doing view A or B? Sounds like A, but I want to make sure.

    • 293979_10151327497702431_820130724_n_large

      Nov 15, 2013, 11.06 PMby FaithMorgan

      Talk about confusing! I think I have it right now: 5 & 6 are A. The fasteners are for the thinner fabric. If your fabric is thick I would go with option B and not use the fasteners. So follow steps 7, 8 and 9. And, you are right…they didn’t have fasteners on the list for option B.

  • Renae_mermaid_low_res_avatar_large

    Oct 15, 2013, 04.50 AMby mademoisellemermaid

    I’m all cut-out now too!!…Ready to sew;)…I had the same hesitation about the grain!!…then I noticed that on pg. 2 of the instructions (the prep), it says to follow the lines and details for view B…Does that mean anything?…I ended up just cutting B!!

    1 Reply
    • Denise_wild_lovesewing_large

      Oct 15, 2013, 06.18 PMby Denise medenisewild

      Oh! I guess I should read instructions when all else fails!! lol. Glad you found that. That will be a huge help for anyone else catching up now. Eager to sew this puppy together! What fabric did you choose?

    • This is a question
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