Burda Style For people who sew

“Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polka Dot Bikini” is a novelty song I grew up singing, telling the story of a shy girl in a very revealing bathing suit who stays immersed in the ocean water to hide from view. But we won’t be hiding this summer now will we, because we’ll making our own swimming attire that we’re proud of!

The image on the bottom left is our very own BurdaStyle bikini. You can easily download the Jessica pattern to customize your own look today. I am opting to make this out of a bold, ethnic print like the images in the above collage or a metallic spandex.

As we should all be well aware (I completely forgot), Father’s Day is coming up this Sunday. This may seem a bit daunting to see your old man in swimming attire but if you’re up to the challenge try our men’s swimming trunks pattern!

One of our users actually combined our bikini top with the men’s trunks to make boy shorts. So cute!

I heart lace. Did you know that lace-making is an ancient craft? A true lace, or passement is created when a thread of flax, cotton, silk, gold or silver is looped, twisted or braided to other threads independently from a backing fabric. Lace was used by the clergy of the ancient Catholic church and was adopted by many different countries in which people would express their unique artistic heritage through their lace. Saint John Francis Regis kept young girls away from corrupt city life of the early 19th century by employing them as lace-makers & embroiderers- hence his becoming the patron saint of lace-making. Read more about the evolution of lace here.

Do you know who the current patron saint of lace-making is? Christian Lacroix. At least in my eyes. The most amazing, complicated, daring and striking collection I have ever seen come out of his atelier appeared this past Autumn/Winter. His models were adorned in floral, spiraling, twisting lace stockings and garments. I nearly lost my breath when I saw these images. I want to look like them.

And we can. This week’s Open Studio is a tutorial to make a conversation starting lace & silk shawl. We found some lace at Mood, discovered some unused hammered silk in our fabric cabinet, and went to town. Check it our HERE!

I’ve been so excited for June to come as this month we’re focusing on folk, vintage and ethnic influences in fashion. Ever since my father had me singing Rolling Stones songs & playing his guitar I have romanticized living in the 70’s- from music to fashion, it was a wild time. This post explains what’s we’re channeling from decades past and how to make these looks yourself!

Look 1: There’s nothing more chic than a soft printed shrug to throw on during a cool summer night. Make a 70’s statement and lengthen it and wear it with jeans or drape the short version over your favorite summer dress. Download the Sarah pattern here.

Look 2: Skinny jeans aren’t going anywhere but forward. Try our Anita pattern and customize your own pair in a metallic linen or brocade. Eliminate the pockets for more subtle look. Not sure about skinny jeans? Try our user’s Chudidar Leggings Tutorial and wear a sultry sheath over them.

Look 3: Mila’s dress is your next summer staple. With so much room for colorful personalization this little frock will make you rock. Check out the pattern here.

Look 4: Sex on the beach? Well, at least you can look sexy in our vintage inspired Alison bathing suit. I love Missoni’s swimsuits but I can’t afford them. I’ll make my own in an ethnic print and spend my money on food & drinks (or rent)!

And don’t forget to accessorize with bright vintage scarves!

Fashion spread pictured top: Steven Meisel. Dhani Harrison and Sasha Pivarova “Here Comes the Son”. Gush

Below is Part 2 of my interview with Natalie Chanin of Alabama Chanin, a coveted lifestyle brand which focuses on slow design and sustainability. To read the first part of this interview click here

Today you are not only creating beautiful things but helping others through your Artists Outreach program, Architecture for Humanity and The Kitchen Sisters. I know you’ve studied Environmental Design and film, but how does one relay a political message, while being taken seriously, through fashion?

I am not sure that we truly relay a political message (or can), I just know that it is very, very important to do what you love in a way that protects people and planet. I choose to work by example and then hope that my experience can spread and give others hope that they can do what they love. I have often been asked if I am political in one way or another… As we all know, this is a time of great change and I believe in taking small, baby steps towards initiating that change. Is that grassroots politics? Maybe.

Lastly, how hands-on are you in the production process today, I realize you have a talented team of artisans hand-sewing items for Alabama Chanin, do you create all of these concepts alone or do you have a partner?

We have the most amazing team of employees and artisans who are truly the heart and soul of this company. Without these friends and colleagues, none of the work I do would exist. And while I am the designer/owner and do not technically have a partner; our team is the best example of partnership I have ever experienced.

Click here to see the Behind-The-Scenes Slideshow, trust me, it is not worth missing!

You can view Natalie’s book Alabama Stitch Book in our A-Store.

Natalie Chanin is a mother, designer, writer, manufacturer; a soulful woman to whom quality of life comes first, as in living, loving, laughing. It comes as no surprise that Natalie has created a coveted lifestyle brand Alabama Chanin, which focuses on slow design and sustainability. Chanin created her first American couture label Project Alabama in 2000, which to much dismay shuttered it’s doors in ’06. Project Alabama came from a cut up t-shirt Natalie manipulated and hand-sewed herself. “That hand-sewn shirt hatched a company, a concept, a clothing line and ultimately brought me back to my family, childhood home and community.”

Natalie was kind enough to answer some of my questions, this is Part 1 of our conversation:

You have been creating garments in the Upcycling vein ever since your first line, “Project Alabama” came to light. These garments, which are literally “passed from hand to hand, and generation to generation” represent something very unique. How did it all begin?

The old story of me cutting apart a t-shirt and sewing it back together again for a party is really the basis of the company I own and run today. I sewed that t-shirt because I wanted something special to wear. What I found out was that it had been a very long time since I had made something with my own two hands. That process of making rather than buying excited me. I got up the next morning and started making another shirt, then the next day another, and the next day another. Those upcycled shirts became a t-shirt line, then a collection and today what I would consider to be a lifestyle.

I remember when “Project Alabama” was nominated for the Council of Fashion Designers in America/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2005 while shortly after the couture line closed its doors. What happened?

Yes, that was a year of highs and lows. We were nominated for the Cooper Hewitt National Design Award and were finalists for the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund. Then in September of 2005, had our first fashion show and wound up on the cover of Women’s Wear Daily. One year later, almost to the day, we closed Project Alabama.

As happens, things change, people, companies and concepts grow and take on their own lives. The Project Alabama that I started closed in September of 2006 and the company that I loved grew into what is now Alabama Chanin.

Project Alabama still exists; however, it is no longer produced here in Alabama, as was my original intention (I understand that the total production is now housed in India); the offices are no longer housed in Alabama, as my original vision of community dictated and the line is not designed by me, as many people still believe.

At the time Project Alabama closed, it felt to me like the end of the world; however, sitting here today, it feels that the world is just beginning.

Click here to see the behind-the-scenes slideshow, trust me, it is not worth missing!

You can view Natalie’s book Alabama Stitch Book in our A-Store.

Read on with part 2 of the series.

…and ruffles are so hot right now too. Yes, I am seriously mad about ruffles. You can add them to an existing piece of clothing or to an accessory which you don’t use anymore, or design a new piece inspired by ruffles, like our Kristen dress.
This week we are not only bringing you this darling Curved Ruffle Clutch tutorial, we have also created a Ruffle Overview Extravaganza for those who want to be in the know on how to pucker and purse your way into any fabric.

I would LOVE to see how Burdastylers ruffle their way into these projects. Enjoy.

This week’s Editor’s Pick is an Open Studio project you can make at home with few supplies and scraps of fabric. We have been inspired to create some clever projects to accessorize your formal look this Spring as we know Spring is the season for proms, weddings, baby showers & graduations! What better way to say something meaningful than with a hand-made gift, or add a little sunshine to your own world with this how-to.

If you missed our Gold Clutch How-To this month you can make your own evening bag with the steps provided here. Do you know what a Facinator is? I didn’t either, but it is something charming to wear in your hair, thanks to Layla’s How-to you can make one too.

Match the numbers of the looks above with the pattern numbers below to find patterns, how-tos and inspirational notes for these looks.

Mother’s Day is right around the corner, hand and hand with warmer spring days. This month we are offering a romantic approach to fashion featuring chiffons, ruffles and feminine touches. Whether you want to create a lovely gift for Mom, or need to make the perfect spring accessory, here are some projects to get your juices flowing!

Sarah Livingstone is a fashion designer based out of Los Angeles, California. She was kind enough to share with us her day to day experience working for the huge fashion house Bebe in LA.

Did you go to design school?

I went to FIDM here in Los Angeles. Instead of the normal 2-3 year program, it is an intensive 15 months. I would highly recommend this for prospective students who already have their degree and KNOW they want to be a fashion designer.

Don’t you love clutches? Have you ever made a clutch before? I have not, and during one of our Burdastyle editorial meetings we decided to offer you all a patternless How-to for a lovely clutch, complete with ruffles and an antique brooch. We’re in love. The steps are quite simple, the outcome shining elegance. This is the first in a series of 2, the next one to be unveiled in May.

As to compliment our prom, formal, wedding season theme we hope this project inspires you to create this useful accessory and we can’t wait to see how you embellish your own. Get started HERE. Good luck!

We’ve said this already but spring is in the air, and with these budding times come proms, graduations, formals, weddings and parties. That’s right, it’s time to look glamourous again. This week I am featuring a project created by a special man who thoughtfully brings to pass FREE pattern-drafting tutorials on his blog Weekend Designer and shares them with the public. How divine.

The patterns on Weekend Designer are created from or inspired by designer items. By scrolling through the blog you will get the gist. I was so pleased to come across the Satin Stole posting, finding this the perfect, make-in-under-an-hour project to crown your formal wardrobe in a personalised manner. You can visit his blog to pursue the free, step-by-step stole making tutorial by clicking HERE.

I took it upon myself to make my own satin stole (pictured above left). Ok, I’ll be honest. I cut corners. I made my slit opening as one would make a machine-made button hole. I did not follow the instructions to create the finely faced slit as plotted on WD. Upon testing the instructions however, the only major difference between Weekend Designer’s pattern instructions and the stole pictured on the right (courtesy of Maggy London) is the length. If you’d like your stole to be longer than mine, I would add about 30 inches to the total length. That would mean either creating a seam in the stole (as I marked above in red) or finding a fabric which exceeds 60 inches in width.

Lustrous satin fabric shapes an elegant wrap designed with a pull-through slit opening for easy adjustability.

What you’ll need:

• 1 yd. (0.90 m) of satin fashion fabric, 60″ wide
• Coordinating thread
• Small patch of fusible interfacing
• Fray Check ® fabric sealant

Good luck, and thank you Don (from Weekend Designer). And my humble apologies for originally referring to WD as a she, I was coming down with a cold and my head was quite fuzzy…my tail’s between my legs.

It’s Springtime here in New York and it’s gotten us all giddy over our own prom and graduation memories. This month we are focusing on looks specifically for prom, graduation, evening and formal wear. We’re excited to offer some new gown designs and accessory ideas, but for now, we’ve rediscovered these simple dress options for you to make for yourselves relatively quickly and easily, to personalize your formal wardrobe.
1. Cate

Cate is a lovely option for a prom/evening dress sloper. Laurenfortgang used Cate to draft a long, strapless floor length dress, see it, along with simple instructions, HERE. Nuiwida23 made her junior prom dress in pink from the Cate pattern. See her lovely dress HERE.

Not sure about strapless? This blog tells you HOW to wear it.

2. Kyla

Kyla is the perfect sloper for drafting a chic prom or evening dress. Our member Scriptandserif also created a HOW-TO for another sexy version of a lycra bandeau dress that you can wear 7 different ways!

Danigreenpeace made a lovely version of the Kyla dress. Click HERE for some inspiration on incorporating a non-stretch material into the dress.

Teachoue created a HOW-TO for a Yacht Club inspired strapless dress that’s absolutely adorable. Click here for Gedwood’s HOW-TO for a simple A-line dress pattern drafted from the basic sloper.

3. <a href =“http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/show/3852&#8221;&gt;African Dress

The African dress is a very simple halter dress. The allure of this dress is all in the fabric. If you have a beautiful print or bold graphic waiting to come to life, your wish shall be granted using our elegant pattern.

Cut out + Keep has a halter dress step by step tutorial too.

Need more instructions? The Green Girls offer a How-to video on making a halter dress in ANY size.

4. Heidi

The dress has adjustable cap-sleeves and tucks instead of front and back darts. You can easily change the tucks into style lines for a more formal fit or leave out the pockets for a more elegant version but hey, you can have somewhere to keep your lip gloss!

This gorgeous pattern has also been turned into the Heidi prom dress variation pattern. Here’s the How-to.

5. Envelope Clutch Bag

No prom or evening out can be complete without a clutch. You can make one in the same fabric as your dress or in a fun metallic vinyl as pictured above! Check out this pattern to make your own!

Threads has a simple clutch tutorial for your enjoyment as well.

Has anyone ever partaken in classes/workshops offered at a sewing lounge? This week I’m focusing on 3 sewing lounges in 3 countries: Australia, England & the USA. Aside from sewing in a supportive community, sewing lounges offer tutorials on how to actually navigate through commercial pattern instructions (something we all know can be exhausting) and always offer beginner classes.

The Studio London
“‘These Gals are getting London sewing’ Amy Lamè BBC London”
Based in London, England, The Studio London offers an array of classes & workshops designed to fit any budget. Run by fashion designer Libby Rose and the multi-talented Beth Nicholas, they “offer this studio space for sewing and craft enthusiasts to learn and flourish in a fun, supportive social hub with lots of handy tips for aspiring designers”.

The Studio London is currently bringing their expertise on the road to events & festivals, for more information click their link above or you can email them here: thestudiolondon@googlemail.com

Make is a New York city based workshop extraordinaire created by Diana Rupp, a creative writer and fashion designer who has also written the book SEW. Make is a craft school, design studio, podium for displaying your handy-work, supply source, etc. offering classes in, a-hem, shoe making, jewelry, fashion, embroidery, knitting, letter-press and more. It sounds like my college curriculum and it sounds like I may enroll in a class. For class schedules, click their link above or send Make an email: info@makeworkshop.com

Next we travel to Melbourne, Australia, to Thread Den, a “a one-stop shop for sewers who do not own their own equipment, or just need a space to work”, a platform for classes, and rooms of vintage patterns and clothing for sale. Thread Den was created by 4 unique individuals all possessing a passion for sewing. “All our classes are facilitated by local designers and craftspeople currently working within the fashion and textile industry”. If you’re in Melbourne you’re right in time for the re-launch party at Thread Den this Saturday the 4th April (12:00pm – 3:00pm). If you’d like to learn more about Thread Den, click on their link above or inquire here: adam@loveydoveydesign.com

Photographs 1 & 3 provided by The Studio London Thank you!

Do you know of a sewing lounge or group in your area? Email me and I will include it in a future sewing lounge feature: alison@burdastyle.com.

Photos courtesy of Tommy Cole

Spotlight is the first in a series of profiles on emerging, independent and established designers.

I spent my last 2 years of college in Boston, Massachusetts, earning a BFA in Fashion Design from Massachusetts College of Art and Design. It was there that I met Roy Caires, co-founder of ALTER and creator of the clothing line This Old Thing?, which is made up of one-of-a-kind, reconstructed vintage pieces.

Roy and his partner Tommy Cole have always held an interest in fashion and retail. I remember while in college I admired Roy’s keen aesthetic and was not at all surprised that he worked in avant-garde designer Alan Bilzerian’s Newbury Street store. Roy and Tommy’s eye for an amazing find has led them from trunk sales of vintage clothing to opening shop without investors or any formal business training- they’ve achieved their success with persistence & tenacity, and of course, good taste.

ALTER is based in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, on a quiet stretch of road adjacent to the East River overlooking Manhattan. Far from most subways and a little out of the way, Franklin Street has become a mellow stretch of residential brownstones, clothing shops, cafes, bars & restaurants. Roy was kind enough to share with us his story below.

1. When was ALTER conceived?

The original Alter (the men’s shop now known as ALTER 109) was conceived on February 2nd 2007, which is Ground Hog’s Day. We thought it would be funny and easy to remember the opening of our first shop on this day. The women’s store (ALTER 140) was conceived on 08.08.08 another day of ironic coincidence.

2. How did you manage to set up shop in the beginning (i.e. overhead, inventory, materials)?

Alter was created, designed and executed by myself and my partner Tommy Cole. When the shop first opened it consisted mainly of vintage pieces that we hand-picked and curated ourselves from special wholesale rag houses that we have been fortunate enough to get into and work with. We also carried a few Cheap Monday jeans and our in-house line This Old Thing?.

We have grown quite rapidly since ’07 and currently house about 40 or so designers from all over the US, Canada and even Sweden. We constructed the shop with our own hands using vintage tools, found objects and materials from our neighborhood of Greenpoint. We turned found wood into our cash wrap and redesigned tables, bookshelves and other common fixtures found in the trash into unique sculptural pieces for display. The overhead was low to begin with as we did all the work ourselves and with what very little money we did have, we purchased a few key denim pieces from Cheap Monday which has now become our largest and sought out label.

3. When did you begin to sew, did you study fashion design formally?

I was formally trained at Mass Art in Boston, Ma., where I received a degree in Fashion Design. Tommy is a self taught photographer and graphic artist who I taught to sew when we first had the inclination to start our own line 4 years ago. In 2005 we began selling This Old Thing? to a few select shops in NY, LA and TX. It was then that we had created a stock of vintage garments with which we would work from. Many items we didn’t have the heart to cut up so we kept them as inspirations. This pile started to get out of control so we decided to create one-day-only pop-up shops to make some extra cash. We did these in Boston (our hometown) as well as in Brooklyn at the space now called Public Assembly (formerly Galapagos).

The popularity and quick success of our this new endeavor gave us the idea that we should combine all of our retail knowledge (15 years between Tommy and I) that we have ever had and make it official with our own permanent shop. So hence the first ALTER came to be.

4. Do you follow a design philosophy or is your process more organic?

We are very organic in our approach to fashion, merchandising and buying. It all comes from our gut. We do not have a specific design philosophy but do approach things in hopes to create a fresh view on retailing, styling and curating.

5. What do you find advantageous about designing & selling your collections in Greenpoint, Brooklyn?

We enjoy our neighborhood and working in it. It is a small community filled with great people who are enjoying what we do. Our customer base is very fashion conscious and savvy and look to us to give them clothing that they can wear all the time at an amazing price.

6. Do you have a muse?

We don’t have a specific person who we would call our muse. We respect and look up to many different people/ companies from all different disciplines. We try to meet our eye for great, fun and wearable fashion with the needs of our customers.

7. What is your favorite restaurant in Brooklyn?

Diner in Williamsburg… amazing food in a low key atmosphere.

Alter 109 (Men)

109 Franklin St.

near Greenpoint Ave.

Brooklyn, NY 11222

tel: 718.784.8818

ALTER 140 (Women)

140 Franklin St.

near Greenpoint Ave.

Brooklyn, NY 11222

tel: 718.349.0203

Do you have any tips for a spotlight feature? I’d love to hear from you: alison@burdastyle.com.